Get Down (and Stay Down)

Deprivation diets may get the pounds off fast, but they won’t help you keep the weight off. Over and over research shows that the most effective way to maintain a sensible body weight is simply to follow a sensible diet. Common sense is more important than kitchen scales and charts.

If you keep a low-fat kitchen--stocked with wonderful fresh foods, with a few useful gadgets and a little technical know-how on your part--you won’t have to think too much about your diet. Eating and cooking good food will come naturally.

The problem for most people is that they are stuck in high-fat eating and cooking habits. A tablespoon of butter automatically goes in the skillet whenever anything is sauteed; oil is always used to dress salads; a large piece of meat is considered a necessary centerpiece of a meal. There are alternatives--and they don’t have to involve cabinets full of tasteless low-fat products. A well-seasoned cast-iron skillet, for instance, needs very little--and sometimes no--added fat for cooking. Lemon and other fruit juices brightened with fresh herbs make wonderful dressings. And meat can take a supporting role at dinner.

When your daily meals are based on seasonal produce, fresh fish and good cuts of meat flavored with fresh herbs, spices and chiles, the food that comes out of your own low-fat kitchen will always make you happy.

Secrets of the Low-Fat Kitchen

*Use less of the best. Select high-quality ingredients--especially extra-virgin olive oil, high-grade vanilla extract, fruits and vegetables in season and good cheeses--for maximum flavor.

*Use meat as a condiment rather than as the main ingredient. Vegetables and grains can add substance.

*Choose lean cuts of beef. Look for the word “loin” or “round” on the package--these are often the leanest. Eye of round or top round comes in at 4 grams of fat per 3-ounce cooked portion followed by top sirloin, round tip, roasted and full cut round, broiled at 6 grams of fat per 3-ounce cooked portion. Tenderloin, porterhouse, T-bone, rib and flank steak contain 9 grams of fat. A 3-ounce cooked portion of veal is laced with 5.6 grams of fat.

*Don’t automatically cut pork out. The leanest cut of pork is the tenderloin, which has a low 4.1 grams of fat per 3-ounce cooked portion. Boneless sirloin chops are reasonable at 5.7 grams of fat per 3-ounce cooked portion, and boneless loin roast has 6.4 grams of fat per 3-ounce cooked portion. A pork rib roast comes in at 8.6 grams per 3-ounce cooked portion.

*Trim fat from lamb before cooking. Loin chops that have been well-trimmed have about 8 grams of fat per 3-ounce cooked portion, while roasted leg of lamb has about 7 grams of fat.

*Look for white-meat poultry: skinless, boneless chicken breasts; turkey tenderloin; and turkey breast. Remove poultry skin after cooking instead of before to get the juiciest flavor; you’ll cut about 5.5 grams of fat per 3-ounce cooked portion. A skinless chicken drumstick has 4 grams fat, compared to 9 grams with the skin on.

*When using ground turkey or chicken, make sure it’s white meat, not dark. If you’re not sure, ask your butcher to grind it fresh for you.

*Choose fish that is less oily for cooking. Sea bass, red snapper, sole, flounder and cod are good choices.

*Trim meats of fat before cooking; 50% of the fat in the portion you’re using can be eliminated.

*Use fresh fruit and vegetable salsas as accompaniments to main dish items. These can be made fat-free.

*Increase herbs and seasonings in a low-fat dish to compensate for the flavor lost from the reduced fat.

*Boost flavor by adding fresh minced or crushed garlic. A light dusting of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, a squeeze of fresh lemon or lime juice, a touch of vinegar or a sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs are also good flavor enhancements.

*Toasting nuts intensifies their flavor, so you will need fewer.

*Toasting spices brings out their flavor. Toast whole spices, then grind them fresh for maximum flavor. A light heating of dried herbs in a dry skillet brings out the flavor.

*Dry spice rubs or spice blends add flavor without fat when smoothed onto the surface of meat and allowed to stand before cooking.

*Fruit- and herb-flavored vinegars can be used in marinades for meat, fish and poultry. Reduce fat (oil) in marinades to one tablespoon or less.

*When making oil-based salad dressings, replace about half the oil with reduced-fat chicken broth or fruit juices.

*When making creamy salad dressing, stir a little reduced-fat chicken broth into low-fat mayonnaise or mayonnaise blended with nonfat yogurt or nonfat sour cream.

*Use a slurry of cornstarch and water as a thickener rather than a buttery roux. Another roux alternative is to toast flour in a skillet until lightly browned for added flavor, then blend it with water until smooth. This technique adds a nutty flavor to sauces.

*Dust cakes with powdered sugar rather than rich frostings.

*Roasting vegetables at high heat caramelizes the sugar and adds sweetness along with flavor. You won’t need extra butter or oil at the table to make the vegetables taste good.

*When preparing soups or stews, make them ahead of time, then chill them in the refrigerator so the fat can rise to the top. Just before reheating, remove the layer of fat from the surface.

*Chill homemade stocks so that the maximum amount of fat can be removed. Also, chill canned broths so that any fat can be removed.

*Stretch main dishes by serving them over unbuttered rice or noodles.

*Drained yogurt can take the place of cream cheese in some recipes.

*Use reduced-fat mayonnaise, nonfat sour cream and nonfat yogurt in salads or sandwich fillings.

*Use low-fat or nonfat milk and other dairy products when possible.

*Canned white beans can be used to thicken some dressings and sauces. When pureed they add a neutral thickening base with little fat.

*When using canned goods, always check the labels, even if you’re buying a product you use often. The fat content varies from brand to brand and sometimes even can to can in products from the same company. Tuna, for instance, can vary in fat content.

*Use low-fat breads like bagels; English muffins; lavash; pita, sourdough and French breads; and corn tortillas in recipes and for accompaniments.

*Highly flavored condiments, such as hoisin, soy sauce, oyster sauce, hot sauces and chile sauces, add flavor with little fat.

*It makes a difference when you take a few extra minutes to arrange your food on a plate or add a special garnish. It can make the meal more satisfying.

Baking in the Low-Fat Kitchen

*In baking, fruit purees can replace some or part of the fat traditionally called for in many recipes. To make your own puree, blend together 1 cup dried fruit with 6 tablespoons water and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract in a blender or food processor to make 3/4 cup puree. Fruit purees can also be purchased in supermarkets.

*Try using cake flour when baking low-fat products for a lighter texture.

*When baking, use chopped dried fruits instead of high-fat nuts or chocolate chips.

*Use cocoa instead of high-fat chocolate when baking. Cocoa also can be sprinkled over cakes or tortes for a lower-fat finishing touch.

The Low-Fat Kitchen Pantry

Brown rice syrup: Similar to honey in consistency but it doesn’t have the overpowering flavor. It is gluten-free and available in health food stores.

Cheese: Look especially for those made naturally with skim milk. When using nonfat cheese, be careful not to overheat it; because it lacks fat, it can become tough. A few good cheese choices include:

Farmers cheese and feta cheese: Tangy in flavor, both are ideal low-fat cheeses to crumble over cooked dishes.

Low-fat ricotta: Regular ricotta has 24 grams of fat per cup, but low-fat and fat-free versions are available.

Mexican cotija: A lower-fat cheese that goes well with Mexican food, it can also be used in any dish in which a crumbly white cheese is needed.

Parmesan or Romano: A little grated Parmesan can go a long way. Buy a wedge and keep it on hand to grate over pastas and salads.

Skim milk mozzarella: This is about 2 grams lower in fat per 1 1/2-ounce serving than regular mozzarella.

Chicken and beef broths: Homemade stocks are always preferable if you have the time to make them. You can control the amount of salt, for one thing. Strain stocks after you make them and chill them overnight so the fat can rise to the top and be skimmed off. When using canned broths, choose low-sodium, reduced-fat broths. Canned broths may also be refrigerated, then skimmed of surface fat.

Chiles: The many wonderful fresh and dried varieties that are available can liven up a low-fat dish by adding flavor and color. The seeds and veins contain the most heat. Leave them in or remove them according to your own tolerance for spiciness.

Coarse or kosher salt: The coarser grain adds texture to food and brings the flavor up from its usual supporting role. It’s wonderful on roasted vegetables and in salads.

Filo dough: When possible, buy fresh filo sheets from a Middle Eastern or Greek market. Filo is also available in the freezer section of most grocery stores, but many times the packages will have sheets that are stuck together from the moisture of freezing and thawing. These frozen sheets tend to tear easily.

Flavored oils: Highly flavored oils, including sesame, mustard, garlic, herb-flavored oils and nut-flavored oils, can add a lot of flavor to a dish with a minimum of fat.

Herbs: Fresh are preferable to dried when possible. A few of my favorites are basil, for its pungent flavor that can punch up many low-fat dishes; dill, for its subtle flavor that works well in seafood and poultry recipes; and sorrel, which is used in European cooking and becoming more common here. Sorrel’s leaves resemble spinach; it has a pleasant tang.

Kefir: A cultured low-fat milk product that looks a bit like liquid yogurt and has the same tang of yogurt. Although it comes in several flavors, plain is best for cooking. A cup of low-fat kefir contains 4.5 grams of fat. It is available in health food stores and specialty markets.

Milk: Milk labels have changed recently. Here’s what to look for:

Fat-free milk: As much fat as possible has been reduced, to less than 0.5%.

Low-fat milk: Was recently reduced to 1% fat from 2% fat. It has 2.5 grams of fat per cup.

Reduced-fat milk: The old low-fat milk. It has 2% fat and % grams of fat per cup.

Whole milk: One cup of whole milk is 12% fat and contains 8 grams of fat per cup. Note that 1 tablespoon of whipping cream has 5 grams of fat (which means 1 cup of whipping cream has 128 grams of fat).

Nonfat evaporated skim milk: Concentrated skim milk fortified with vitamins A and D. It contains up to 0.5% milk fat, compared with regular evaporated milk, which contains 1 gram of fat per tablespoon.

Mirin: A sweetened rice wine available in Japanese markets.

Nonfat cottage cheese: Compare it to regular creamed cottage cheese, which contains 9.5 grams of fat per cup.

Nonfat egg substitute: This contains 99% egg white and can be used in place of whole eggs in many recipes. Egg substitute contains no fat or cholesterol--a whole egg contains 5.6 grams of fat. Note that 1/4 cup is equivalent to one whole egg.

Nonfat sour cream: A good nonfat replacement for regular sour cream, which has 3 grams of fat per tablespoon.

Nonfat yogurt: Its tangy flavor works well in place of its higher-fat counterparts--a cup of regular plain yogurt contains 8 grams of fat. It can also be substituted for sour cream in many instances.

Nonstick cooking spray: These commercial sprays come in basic oil flavors: canola, olive and butter are common. The mesquite-flavored spray is good for using on indoor stove-top grills and adds a smoky barbecue taste. Many people, however, prefer to use their own higher-quality oils in spray pump bottles and mister bottles now on the market.

Pasta: Look for pastas made without eggs for the lowest fat. A 2-ounce portion of dried pasta is a healthy serving when sauced with low-fat ingredients. Note that orzo is a tiny rice-shaped pasta used in making soups and salads.

Quinoa: A high-protein South American grain that is becoming more popular here. It should be rinsed under cold water before cooking. And it’s quick to make, taking only about 10 minutes to cook. You know it’s done when the grains turn translucent. It can be found in health food stores and specialty markets.

Rapini or broccoli rabe: Also known as “bitter broccoli.” It’s a wonderful alternative to the usual broccoli-on-the-side rut. Try sauteing it with garlic, then squeezing a bit of lemon juice on top before serving.

Rice and grains: Whole grains and rice are used often in low-fat cooking because they contain little or no fat and are high in fiber. Try steaming some of the longer-cooking varieties of rice such as brown and wild rice--it’s a no-fuss way to cook them and the texture comes out perfect.

Potsticker wrappers: Small rounds of wonton dough wrappers are used for making soup dumplings and are available in Asian groceries and supermarkets.

Soybeans: The high-protein legumes used to make tofu and other soy products. They are delicious fresh and can often be found at farmers’ markets and Asian markets. They are readily available dried.

Spring roll wrappers: Thinner than the more familiar egg roll wrappers, they are available in the freezer section of Chinese and Vietnamese markets and some supermarkets.

Tahineh: Sesame seed paste. It’s not low fat, but it can add a lot of flavor to food when used judiciously. It’s most commonly used to make the Middle Eastern dip hummus and is available in Middle Eastern and specialty markets. When first opened, the oil is usually separated on the top; mix well before measuring. Keep it refrigerated once opened; it can become rancid quickly.

Tofu: Also called bean curd. It may be sold packed in water, in bulk or vacuum packed. The vacuum-packed or silken tofu is usually found in the produce section of supermarkets. Tofu comes in a variety of consistencies--extra firm, firm, medium and soft. The firm varieties are best for stir-frying and crumbling over the top of dishes like cheese. Medium is best for casseroles, soups and salads. The softer ones are ideal for sauces, dips and drinks, when you don’t need the tofu to hold its shape during cooking. Low-fat tofu has less than half the fat of regular tofu.

Vinegar: Herb vinegars, such as dill, tarragon or rosemary, are ideal flavor enhancements in low-fat cooking. Mild and slightly sweet rice vinegar is used in Asian cooking. And balsamic vinegar, a sweet, aged Italian vinegar, is used often these days in low-fat cooking. Balsamic is good when used in salad dressings and marinades. When reduced, it takes on a syrupy consistency that is great when it’s served as a sauce. Avoid using the highest-grade balsamics for dressings, marinades and in food that will be cooked; the best vinegars should be used only when they will be the star of the dish.

What’s on the Label?

The Nutrition Facts label on most food packages gives a breakdown of nutrients and the per-serving percentage of what the government calls daily values. These are based on a 2,000- to 2,500-calorie diet for adults and children over 2 years old.

Serving sizes have been standardized for similar foods in recent years so you can compare labels.

You will then see a list of nutrients in the product given in grams. A parallel column will give the percentage each nutrient will fill in your daily quota. For instance, if a label reads 3 grams of fat at 5% daily value, it means one serving will give you 5% of the fat you need in your diet for that day. No more than 30% of the calories you consume a day should come from fat.

Here are a few of the standardized definitions of the terms manufacturers are allowed to use on their products:

Fat-free: Less than one-half gram fat per serving.

100% fat-free: Meets requirements for fat-free (less than one-half gram fat per serving).

Low-fat: 3 grams fat or less per serving.

Reduced-fat: At least 25% less fat when compared with similar foods.

Variable % fat-free: Meets requirements for low-fat. The percentage is based on the amount of fat (by weight) in 100 grams of food. Example: If 50 grams of food contain 2 1/2 grams fat, the food can be labeled “95% fat-free.”

Saturated fat-free: Less than one-half gram saturated fat per serving.

Low saturated fat: 1 gram or less saturated fat per serving and no more than 15% of calories from saturated fat.

Reduced saturated fat: At least 25% less saturated fat per serving when compared to a similar food.

Lean: Packed seafood, game meat, cooked meat or cooked poultry with less than 10 grams total fat, less than 4 grams saturated fat and less than 95 milligrams cholesterol.

Extra-lean: Contains less than 5 grams total fat, less than 2 grams saturated fat and less than 95 milligrams cholesterol per serving in 100 grams of food.

Source: American Dietetic Assn.

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Recipes From “The Low-Fat Kitchen”

This story is an excerpt from “The Low-Fat Kitchen,” which will be in bookstores June 15. It inludes more than 110 recipes developed by Times Test Kitchen Director Donna Deane, as well as advice on cooking techniques and ingredients essential to maintaining a low-fat kitchen. To order, call (800) 246-4042 and give your credit card number or send a check to the Los Angeles Times, P.O. Box 5425, Chatsworth, CA 91313. Price is $16.95 (a $2 discount off regular price), plus $3.50 shipping and handling, for a total of $20.45, including sales tax. “The Low-Fat Kitchen” will also be available in bookstores for $18.95 after June 15.