In Old Cuernavaca

When I was a teenager growing up in Cuernavaca, I loved to eat at Las Mananitas. Every Friday night and every Sunday afternoon, I--along with most of the rest of the town--was there.

We would begin with a virgin Mary and appetizers in the magnificent garden, filled with plush green grass and wild peacocks roaming about while the sounds of parrots roosting in the enormous trees overhead filled the air.

Then we would move inside, to the shade of the covered halls and patios overlooking the garden, where we would sip the restaurant’s special tortilla soup, eat blanco de Patzcuaro (a very delicate white fish from Michoacan) and finish with Kahlua and cream.

At the time, 40 years ago, it was my favorite restaurant in all of Mexico. It never seemed odd to me that the owner--Bob Krause--was an americano. In fact, many of the best restaurants in Cuernavaca have ties to foreigners, both from the North and from Europe.

From the 16th century conquistador Hernan Cortes to the 19th century Hapsburg emperor Maximilian to 20th-century expatriates such as the heiress Barbara Hutton of the U.S. and writer Malcolm Lowry of Canada, many famous foreigners have made their homes in Cuernavaca. One way or another, these celebrities have left their marks on the place. And, somehow, many of these landmarks end up with food connections.

Las Mananitas is only one example, albeit a particularly happy one. Krause was an entrepreneur who opened this restaurant in 1955. Las Mananitas operated as a cooperative in which everyone shared in the profits. Though he is sadly gone, the restaurant operates still, part of a luxurious Relais et Chateaux hotel with rooms that go for up to $400 a night.

The Hacienda of Atlacomulco, built by Cortes himself in 1535 as a sugar mill, is now a hotel named Hacienda de Cortes. Shaded by 400-yeaer-old amate trees, it’s the perfect place for cocktails or cafe de olla--Mexican dark-roasted coffee made in an earthenware pot with a cinnamon stick and brown sugar.

Three hundred years after Cortes, Maximilian and Charlotte also adopted Cuernavaca as a retreat. They would organize lavish parties with delicious French cuisine in the lush 18th century Borda Gardens.

Maximilian was also fond of wandering to the neighboring town of Acapatzingo, where he had a girlfriend, Concepcion Serrano, better known as La India Bonita: the Beautiful Indian Girl.

In 1933, a restaurant opened in Cuernavaca under the name La India Bonita, specializing in enchiladas of mole and cecina (jerky). La India Bonita is also known for squash blossom soup (sopa de flor de calabaza), steak in guajillo chile sauce (puntas de filete) and what they call Aztec steak (pachola molido en metate): steak ground in a mortar and served with a peanut and tomato sauce spicy with chile de arbol.

In 1992, after a series of moves, La India Bonita arrived at its current location, one that also has ties to foreign visitors--Casa Manana, which was built in 1928 by the American ambassador to Mexico, Dwight W. Morrow.

The story goes that a bricklayer named Pancho Rebollo built the house. Every weekend for seven months, Morrow would visit the site and ask Rebollo when he would finish. He would always say, “Manana, Mr. Ambassador.” When the home was finally finished, a commemorative plaque was placed at the front entrance reading: “Casa Manana: built by Pancho, the bricklayer, 1928.”

When it was his home, Morrow received many guests there, including politicians, artists and society people. Gen.Douglas MacArthur and Helena Rubinstein stayed at Casa Manana, and it was there that Charles Lindbergh and Ann Spencer Morrow, the ambassador’s daughter, began the romance that led to their marriage.

The Morrows hosted elegant dinners beneath the shade of the guava tree in the first of seven patios. The Morrows were especially fond of summery tropical fruit juices: mango, papaya, cantaloupe, prickly pear, watermelon, guayaba, orange and cactus juice.

In the second patio, adorned with blooming bougainvillea, lime trees and white mulberry trees, they would sip their coffee. In front of an enormous natural stone fireplace, the Morrows would offer Cognac and almond pastries, rice pudding, fresh corn torte and chongos, a dessert of cooked milk curds.

In the 1950s, Hutton built a refuge in Cuernavaca. Japanese architects, who brought in the furniture, material and paintings from Japan, designed Zumiya, as the place was called. They even built a Kabuki theater, a front door replica of an ancient Japanese palace door and tea salons.

Today, her home--still called Zumiya--is a luxury hotel and restaurant that specializes in Mexican and international cuisine.

Lowry, who immortalized Cuernavaca in his novel “Under the Volcano,” used to drink enormous quantities of mezcal in the town’s cantinas, which are famous for botanas--snacks such as tacos de gusanos de maguey, filled with agave worms, considered a delicacy in Mexico.

Not surprisingly, perhaps, his house too is now a hotel, called Bajo el Volcan.

About Raw Eggs

When raw eggs are called for in a recipe, such as the Cilantro Mayonnaise, there are a couple of methods a cook can use to make the eggs safer.

Microwave Method: Heat egg yolks on high 30 seconds. Now heat the egg yolks on high at 10-second intervals, up to 60 seconds total cooking time, watching through window to see if yolks begin to move. As soon as movement is detected in yolks, heat on high 8 to 10 seconds more. Beat yolks until smooth with clean fork or whisk. Return to microwave and heat on high until yolks again begin to move, up to 10 seconds. Remove yolks from microwave, cover and let stand 1 minute. If using extra-large eggs, stir in 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon water before microwaving.

Stove-top Method: Heat 2 egg yolks over very low heat in saucepan with 1/4 cup of the most acidic liquid called for in the recipe. The acidity in vinegars and lemon or lime juice helps prevent the yolks from curdling. Stir the yolks constantly until they thicken like lemon curd, 3 to 4 minutes. If using cooking thermometer, check that yolks are heated to 160 degrees or to 140 for 3 1/2 minutes.

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Eduardo’s Setas

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 25 minutes

6 cloves garlic, crushed

4 black peppercorns, ground

2 tablespoons oregano

Dash cumin, ground

2 teaspoons chicken bouillon granules

1/2 cup olive oil

1 1/4 pounds flavorful mushrooms such as porcini, portabello and oyster

8 corn tortillas

* Combine garlic, pepper, oregano, cumin, chicken bouillon and 1 tablespoon oil and sprinkle over mushrooms.

* Heat remaining 7 tablespoons olive oil in skillet over medium-high heat and fry mushrooms in batches until mushrooms begin to brown, about 10 minutes.

* Serve with corn tortillas.

8 servings. Each serving: 380 calories; 328 mg sodium; 53 mg cholesterol; 29 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 15 grams protein; 1.04 grams fiber.

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Cilantro Mayonnaise

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

Serve on small red boiling potatoes or as an accompaniment to chicken, shrimp or steak.

1 bunch cilantro, leaves only

6 cloves garlic

1/2 cup vinegar

2 eggs

1 1/2 tablespoons chicken bouillon granules

1 cup olive oil

* Puree cilantro leaves, garlic, vinegar, eggs and chicken base in blender. Slowly add oil with motor running until thickened, 1 to 2 minutes.

1 1/2 cups. Each teaspoon: 36 calories; 70 mg sodium; 7 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 0 carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

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Turkey and Shrimp Escabeche Salad

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

Double the amount of turkey or shrimp if you want to make the salad with only turkey or only shrimp.

4 cups oil

4 heads garlic, halved crosswise

2 large onions, thinly sliced

8 jalapenos

1 head cauliflower, separated into florets

4 cups finely sliced carrots

4 cups broccoli florets

4 cups finely sliced zucchini

1 (15-ounce) can peas, drained

1 tablespoon mixed herbs, such as oregano, thyme, marjoram and crushed bay leaves

1/3 cup white vinegar

Salt, pepper

2 pounds sliced turkey breast

1 pound cooked and peeled shrimp, about 32 giant

10 to 12 lemon wedges

1 avocado, sliced

* Heat oil in very large skillet or stockpot over medium heat. Fry garlic heads until soft, about 5 minutes. Add onions and fry until transparent, 2 to 3 minutes.

* Add jalapenos, cauliflower, carrots, broccoli and zucchini and cook just until they begin to wilt but aren’t soft, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add peas, mixed herbs, vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Drain vegetables and reserve cooking liquid for dressing.

* Layer 1/2 of vegetables on platter or in bowl. Place turkey in layer over vegetables, then layer of remaining vegetables and layer of shrimp. Pour about 1/2 cup of cooking liquid over salad.

* Serve cold as salad or at room temperature over white rice. Squeeze lemon juice over salad to taste and garnish with avocado slices.

10 to 12 servings. Each of 10 servings: 362 calories; 270 mg sodium; 144 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 43 grams protein; 3.04 grams fiber.

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Mushrooms With Chorizo

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 30 minutes

Use this recipe as a filling for tacos or as a garnish for beef, pork or chicken.

2 chorizos, casings removed

1 red onion, chopped

1 red bell pepper, chopped

1 green bell pepper, chopped

2 cups sliced mushrooms

* Fry chorizos in skillet over medium heat until cooked through and slightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from skillet and set aside. Saute onion in chorizo grease until softened, about 5 minutes. Add red and green bell peppers and mushrooms and fry until softened, about 10 minutes. Add to chorizo and mix.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 97 calories; 218 mg sodium; 15 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.36 gram fiber.

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Corn Bread With Chiles in Cream

Active Work Time: 50 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

CORN BREAD

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter

1 cup sugar

8 cups fresh corn kernels

1/2 cup milk

5 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

5 eggs, separated

* Beat butter and sugar until creamy. Puree corn and milk in blender or food processor. Sift flour with baking powder and salt. Add egg yolks to flour and beat until well mixed. Combine butter, corn and egg mixtures. Beat egg whites until stiff and gently fold into corn mixture.

* Bake at 350 degrees in buttered 13x9-inch baking dish until golden brown, 45 to 50 minutes.

CHILES IN CREAM

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

1 large onion, thinly sliced

8 poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, deveined and cut in strips

2 cups Mexican cream

Salt, pepper

* Heat butter in skillet over medium heat. Add onion and saute until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add chile strips and saute 1 minute. Stir in cream and salt and pepper to taste and cook until chiles are soft, about 5 minutes.

* Serve on top of Corn Bread.

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings: 714 calories; 817 mg sodium; 236 mg cholesterol; 48 grams fat; 61 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 1.38 grams fiber.