COOKBOOK WATCH

At the turn of the century, one of the most prestigious careers African American men could aspire to was working for the railroads. And among the railroad workers, no one got more respect than the cooks, who turned out restaurant-quality food in crowded galley kitchens aboard moving trains.

Their history is largely forgotten today, which is why “Good Things to Eat as Suggested by Rufus,” lovingly reprinted by Howling at the Moon Press ($19.95), is so important. Based on the notebooks of Rufus Estes, who was born a slave but went on to cook for two presidents, royalty and the odd rail tycoon, it was originally published in 1911. The 1999 version includes not only a facsimile edition of the original but period photographs as well. It’s a splendid little package.

Lest you confuse yesterday’s railroad grub with today’s, Estes’ recipe for roast suckling pig specifies that the pig should not be more than 6 weeks old (it also gives instructions on how to clean the pig). His Marbled Chicken is a very modern-sounding terrine of boned fowl, alternating dark and light meat. Good things to eat, indeed.

“Good Things to Eat as Suggested by Rufus” is available at Cook’s Library, 8373 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, or by call Howling at the Moon Press to order: (877) 446-9546.