Rock Might Be Noisy, but It Brings Families Together

Rock, the latest venture from Santa Monica chef Hans Rockenwagner, has just opened in the space once occupied by Angeli Mare in Marina del Rey. Located on a corner of the Villa Marina Marketplace, it’s a huge, unwieldy space, which the designers have tamed with bright blues, oranges and yellows, straight out of a 1960s palette. The lights look like big white balloons suspended from the ceiling. And at the back--way at the back--is the kitchen. Raucously noisy, Rock feels something like sort of a hip dining hall.

“Since this is your first time, let me tell you a little about the concept,” our waiter volunteers. “We have a family thing going. A lot of the food is served family-style. And we have a family table, too, “ he says, pointing at the long narrow table running almost the length of the room. The three-generation family, complete with 6-week-old baby, sitting at the communal table, perfectly illustrates the idea. As we watch, the mom hands her 4-year-old daughter a shaggy lamb’s shank, which she proceeds to hold like a Popsicle. As soon as her mother’s not looking, she ventures a bite, and promptly puts it on somebody else’s plate.

Our waiter asks if we’d like to try some tapas, and sends over a tray with a dozen or so little dishes to choose from. I’ve never understood why they’ve never taken off in this country. We sample four. Homemade mozzarella balls bathed in olive oil and herbs are quite good, and I like the cipolline onions roasted until they’re soft in a balsamic glaze. But octopus salad with olives tastes as if it’s been sitting around too long, and beet salad tastes tired, too. I guess not enough takers.

Fried calamari is always a good test, and these, rolled in bread crumbs and herbs, are tasty, especially dipped in a punchy romesco, a Catalan sauce of roasted red peppers, tomatoes, garlic and pounded almonds and hazelnuts. Ciabatta (freshly baked flat bread) topped with ruffly escarole and boquerones (vinegar-marinated fresh anchovies from Spain) is delicious, too. I don’t quite understand the Alsatian onion and bacon tart, though: The filling isn’t set.

We were disappointed in the fideus with seafood, too, a Catalan pasta dish that involves cooking short lengths of noodle like risotto. But in this version the pasta doesn’t have much tooth, and the quality of the seafood could be better. Veal schnitzel ought to be good here, but the kitchen doesn’t seem to have the frying down yet. Even the fries are limp.

Rock’s menu is large and eclectic, one that the kitchen is going to need time to master. I like the mix of dishes, though, which includes flavors from all over the Mediterranean and some Asian-inspired fare, too. Despite the somewhat rocky start, the place has possibilities. It’s something to consider, too, for a snack at the bar before or after a movie.

BE THERE

Rock, Villa Marina Marketplace, 13455 Maxella, Marina del Rey; (310) 822-8979. Open daily for dinner; opening for lunch in a month or so. Appetizers $5 to $10.75; main courses $9.75 to $16.50. Free parking in structure.