Let Them Shake Salt

Scan the tables at chichi Les Deux Cafes and you’ll notice something missing. Salt and pepper shakers. You can ask, of course, but that might be a trifle gauche.

“Everything is seasoned properly,” insists owner Michele Lamy. “We’re thinking that too much salt is not good for you. Because everything is organic and in season, we ask people to taste the natural flavor of the food.”

It’s the same story over at Joachim Splichal’s Patina. “It’s a very minimalist table setting,” says sommelier Chris Meeske. “If a customer requests salt or fresh ground pepper, we’re very happy to bring those.”

Still, self-spicing isn’t anathema at every French restaurant. “We have French sea salt from Brittany,” says Robert Peppey of L’Orangerie. “It’s called fleur de sel. It has a different flavor than regular salt. If you use it with restraint, it can complement the food.” The restaurant also provides individual grinders with white pepper for each table, which, Peppey says, “is much more mild than black pepper.’

Thankfully, at Phillippe’s The Original--”The Home of the French Dip Sandwich”--condiment liberte rules. Every table is stocked with Phillippe’s hot mustard, salt, pepper, even white sugar. “You can also get mayonnaise and regular mustard on request,” says manager Gloria Reyes. “But the hot mustard we make right here. We absolutely recommend it on the sandwiches.”