Looking for a Jacket With That ‘in Between’ Look
Dear Fashion Police: Why can’t men buy unstructured jackets like the kind women wear? Suits have their place, but mostly for CEOs. Sport coats are usually suit coats with brass buttons but still tailored with all the lining and shoulder pads.
There should be a jacket between a sport coat and a shirt.
--STILL SEARCHING
Dear Still: Yes, there should be. There should also be peace on Earth and a decent cup of coffee for under $2, but we’re not holding our breath.
It’s true that tailored jackets with lining and shoulder pads can be found in every menswear store and department from here to Timbuktu. It’s what most men think of when they think jacket or sport coat. Even with the casualization of our culture and more offices dressing down instead of up, it’s still the style that’s most available.
Martin Flora noticed this phenomenon as well. But the Oregon designer, who has worked everywhere from Sears to Victoria’s Secret to Christian Lacroix, says that doesn’t cut it anymore: “The marketplace is not addressing what the people want.”
So he designed a line of his own, called Flora Design, available on his Web site, that addresses the need for something in between. His utility jacket has front patch pockets and cuffed sleeves, plus a notched lapel. The four-button cargo jacket has side cargo pockets and a notchless lapel. His vintage jacket is more relaxed than a typical sport coat, cut a little shorter, and has front and back vertical pleats.
Prices hover in the $165 to $185 range, and because this is a spring line, fabrics range from linen to linen-cotton, cotton and silk blends. (They also offer vests.) The fall 2000 line will have even more jacket styles.
Flora, who runs the company out of Lake Oswego, Ore., with his brother Scott, likens the collection to an SUV: “It has functional aspects to it, but it has luxury as well. These are functional but can dress up nicely.” The Web site is https://www.floradesign.com, and the phone number is (503) 624-0158.
Barney’s New York in Beverly Hills ([310] 276-4400) also has some styles in Armani and Zegna that you’re looking for. They’re unlined and less structured, but they’re pricier, starting at $775. The good news is that more designers at last seem to be picking up on this trend, and you will be seeing lots of relaxed jackets in the spring. We’ll keep you posted.
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From the Fashion Police Blotter: A couple of weeks ago we heard from “Saddling Up,” who was looking for saddle shoes for her problem-plagued feet. Since then we’ve heard from a few readers with similar afflictions. Here’s their advice (and thanks to everyone who wrote in):
“I’d like to suggest some alternatives to saddle shoes or sneakers. As a longtime orthotics wearer, I’ve discovered some shoe stores where you’re pretty likely to find reasonably fashionable shoes at not completely outrageous prices that will accommodate orthotics.
“Try all the ‘comfort’ shoe stores that we’re seeing more and more of these days, such as the Walking Co. and Easy Spirit, found in most malls. The Birkenstock stores in West Hollywood and Westwood have a large selection of non-Birkenstock brands, European comfort shoes, as does Lucha’s in South Pasadena. These are all good places to find dressier shoes too, and still be comfortable, on those occasions when you’re willing to forgo orthotics for an evening. I’ve also had some luck with a few Bass, Keds and Nine West styles of higher cut, lace-up shoes.”
(Fashion Police note: Birkenstock West Hollywood, [310] 855-0744, and Westwood, [310] 208-7307. Lucha’s, [626] 799-6891.)
“With regards to ‘Saddling Up,’ I have another suggestion--children’s shoes. They’re cut higher, allowing the room for the orthotics that regular shoes do not. I wear a women’s size 5 1/2 and have been able to get great shoes in a girls’ size 5. If your feet are bigger, you can switch to boys’ sizes, or, if necessary, men’s sizes. My podiatrist was stunned when I walked in with loafers on, but [after] I explained what I had done, he checked the fit and approved.”
“I, too, am a shoe-loving woman in her 30s who’s been ‘saddled’ with orthotics and a double A-width heel. (Just try to find shoes with those two strikes against you.) But I’m here to say, there’s more to life than saddle and tennis shoes. I’ve discovered a wonderful brand of basic, yet attractive, lace-up shoes and low boots that come in half-inch to 2-inch heels. They look great, feel great and accommodate those pesky orthotics. The brand is Munro, and Nordstrom carries its full line of leather and nubuck shoes and boots in a variety of colors and styles.”
“Well, it must be in the air. I had a yen for a pair of saddle shoes myself and ordered a pair two months ago from a company called Daddy-O’s. During my college years in the early ‘70s, I wore black-and-white saddle shoes for years. It was my personal fashion statement. (Please remember this was after Earth Shoes and before platform shoes.) So maybe I’m just reliving my youth, but with the Swing revival, I thought I could get away with wearing them again. I’m glad the Fashion Police didn’t cringe at the suggestion!”
(Fashion Police note: Daddy-O’s Web site is https://www.daddyos.com; click on ‘Cool Clothes.’ Or call [888] 900-1950.)
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Write to Fashion Police, Los Angeles Times, Times Mirror Square, Los Angeles, CA 90053, fax to (213) 237-4888, or send e-mail to socalliving@latimes.com.
