New Deli

There’s good cause for taking note when a traditional New York-style corned beef sandwich arrives in Ventura County.

Enter Danny’s Deli & Grill, which recently moved to Telegraph Road in Ventura from the Valencia area.

East Coast transplants and anybody else who has acquired a hankering for kosher-style delicatessen fare will appreciate this new eatery. And if the often-bustling restaurant is any indication, Danny’s has hit a soft spot with patrons who have had to do without a regular deli fix.

“We feel very fortunate,” said proprietor Danny Everhart, who operates the restaurant with his wife, Wendy. “People are real excited about what we have here.”

Danny’s may be filling a niche, but that does not guarantee success. Every business has its own complexities, and a deli is no exception.

“You have to have some history, exposure or experience in it,” Everhart said, who bought his first delicatessen in the early 1980s. “It’s not required, but there are real nuances to this business.”

One of the biggest challenges for a kosher-style deli is earning a good reputation for core items, such as matzo balls, potato pancakes, chopped liver, kreplach, smoked fish and chicken soup.

“When you get back to what is traditional deli, those are the points by which you are compared,” Everhart said. “You get a passing grade, or you don’t.”

The deli experience is about value and quality. Is the pastrami lean and moist? Stacked high? Is it sliced right? Handled correctly?

“There is a lot of integrity in the food,” Everhart said. “The moment you don’t pay attention to those things, not only does the quality of the product suffer, but consequently, so does the experience.”

Everhart is keenly aware that kosher-style deli devotees are some of the most discerning restaurant-goers around.

“Deli people are very vocal about their food,” he said. “The best food is always the stuff grandma or mom made. It’s very personal. You are always compared.

“When I hear, ‘This is almost as good as my grandmother’s,’ I know we’re hitting the mark, we’re doing it right.”

Like many delicatessens, Danny’s offers a diversified menu, including pastas, salads, Mexican-influenced dishes, a rib-eye steak and specialty dinners.

“We try to do that little sleight of hand with the ‘Deli & Grill,’ ” he said. “That way, people get a chance to see that we offer a large variety of foods.”

DETAILS

Danny’s Deli & Grill is at 3263 Telegraph Road, Ventura. Hours: 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Friday; 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Call 289-9200.

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Buy Now and Save: The 15th annual Ventura County Food and Wine Festival at The Oaks mall in Thousand Oaks will be held Feb. 27. Although the date isn’t exactly just around the corner, Dec. 31 is. And you have until then to purchase $30 tickets, $10 off regular admission. Tickets purchased after Dec. 31 are $35 in advance and $40 at the door.

The popular charity fund-raiser, hosted by Conejo Valley Rotary Club, features samplings of fine foods and wines provided by more than 100 restaurants, caterers, wineries and other food purveyors. For more information and to purchase tickets in advance, call 371-1500.

Rodney Bosch writes about the restaurant scene in Ventura County and outlying points. He can be reached at 653-7572, fax 653-7576 or by e-mail at: rodney.bosch@latimes.com.