The Italians Are Coming

True Italian bresaola at your corner market? Real mortadella? Speck? Cotecchino? Zampone? If David Biltchik gets his way, those cold-cut dreams could become a hot reality.

A Washington, D.C., consultant, Biltchik represents ASSICA, an association of Italian meat processors, in their negotiations with the Department of Agriculture.

He’s making some headway. Bresaola, air-dried beef, has already been approved, though it has not yet been imported (Swiss bresaola is here now). And according to Biltchik, the regulations are now being written to allow the importation of true mortadella, the voluptuously fatty pork sausage. If all goes well, the rest will follow.

Biltchik has a track record. He helped smooth the way almost 10 years ago for the importation of prosciutto di Parma, which had been banned from these shores for more than 20 years.

On the other hand, where international trade is concerned, anything can happen. At the same time these regulations are being written, the federal government is considering slapping a 100% tariff on prosciutto in retaliation for the European Union’s refusal to allow bananas exported by American companies.

“I can’t tell you a lie,” says Biltchik. “I’ve been telling everyone we’ll have mortadella in a month, but I’ve been saying that for a year now.”