Who Will Wear Whom? The Courting Begins
Within minutes after Oscar nominations were announced Tuesday, fashion designers around the country, indeed the world, were scrambling for the right to dress the nominees for the big night.
Monah Li, a Los Angeles designer, sent out special bags with press kits to stylists for some of the nominees. Escada shipped out a full-color catalog complete with fabulous sunglasses for that walk down the paparazzi-packed red carpet. Designers know they can buy no better publicity than the cache of a star flaunting who created her outfit.
“It’s like the Super Bowl for fashion designers,” said one designer.
This year the body to dress is best actress nominee Gwyneth Paltrow. “She’s looked at at every level,” said Tom Julian, fashion analyst for Oscar.com, a joint Web site of ABC and the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences.
Designers also will be courting nominees’ wives (Rita Wilson, Kate Capshaw and Annette Bening), stars like Cameron Diaz, Sharon Stone and Halle Berry, as well as popular TV stars like Julianna Margulies and Calista Flockhart.
“How many millions of people watch the Oscars?” noted Sacramento-based designer Elizabeth Galindo, whose couture gowns have been worn by Sophia Loren and Melanie Griffith. “A picture is taken of some star in your dress, it’s free advertising.”
Among this year’s sure-to-be-sought-after nominees are those for best actress and supporting actress, which include a few young beauties like Cate Blanchett and Emily Watson and some of the industry’s elegant legends like Meryl Streep and Lynn Redgrave.
“There’s no more important show than the Oscars. [The gowns are] not worn on the models, they’re worn on idols,” said Fred Hayman, who as Oscar’s fashion coordinator for 11 years consults with stars. “You remember when Cher wore that Bob Mackie gown. People remembered it for a long time.”
“That’s what the Academy Awards are all about. It’s a big fashion show,” said Li, who hopes Blanchett and Watson will consider her whimsical line, which has been seen on “Friends,” “Party of Five” and “Melrose Place.” Like everyone, she’d love to dress Paltrow but admits, “She’s more like an Armani girl.”
Still, the Oscars would give her a distinct cachet. “It gives you a lot of credibility,” said Li.
“We always have a breakthrough designer,” said trend analyst Julian.
The awards are equally important for fashion giants like Halston and Escada. Last year, two gowns stood out: Kim Basinger’s Escada ball gown and Minnie Driver’s red Halston gown with a fox stole.
This year is particularly important for Halston’s design and creative director Kevan Hall, who took over the line last summer when Randolph Duke left to form his own company.
“We are certainly going to go after the top contenders for Oscar,” Hall said, “but you just never know whether they’re going to wear the dress. It’s a constant cultivating of relationships with celebrities.”
The late Roy Halston understood the link between celebrity and fashion, visibly courting the icons of his day--Liz Taylor, Liza Minnelli and Bianca Jagger.
Last year, Escada partnered with Basinger, giving her a more serious, sophisticated look just as she was beginning to be recognized as a serious actress. Basinger won the best supporting actress award and many say the best dressed as well.
