1996 Cha^teau de Reignac Bordeaux Superiore Cuvee Speciale, Bordeaux; About $15

At well under $20 a bottle, Cha^teau de Reignac is flying off the shelves of the wine shops. It stands out for its clean, bright fruit and its classic nose of red berries, leather and cigar box. Although it is only a Bordeaux Superiore, this inky garnet blend of Merlot with Cabernet and a dash of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec has more character than most. Who would have thought? The Bordelaise can make decent everyday wines, too; not every bottle from this celebrated region has to cost an arm and a leg. I suspect a good many cha^teau owners pop open bottles like this when no one is looking, saving their own very pricey bottles for guests.

Widely available in the Los Angeles area.