The Soup Season

January is a time for serious soup making. Maybe it’s the holiday letdown or the season’s typical bleakness, but nothing seems more comforting right now than thick, stick-to-the-ribs soup.

I like to spend Saturday or Sunday afternoons in winter making a soup that will help get me through weekday suppers or lunches. Stirring a bubbling pot of soup on the stove is one of the most satisfying experiences I know.

Try my House Pea Soup or Winter Minestrone and experience the pleasures of tending a simmering pot of soup for yourself.

House Pea Soup is a smoky, mellow soup that is a staple in our freezer during winter. A ham hock works fine in the soup, but I like to use a smoked ham shank for its smokier flavor and because it has more meat than a ham hock. (If your local market doesn’t have them, they’re available by mail order from Nueske Hillcrest Farm Meats at [800] 382-2266.)

Fennel gives the Winter Minestrone a lovely sweetness, Swiss chard and carrots give it texture and flavor, while white beans give the soup creaminess and substance. The soup is simple to make, though there is a good amount of chopping involved. A food processor can make the task much easier.

Crusty bread is the classic match with soup, but I love Garlic-Herb Bread With Feta Cheese with these soups. Add a green salad or lettuce wedge with a simple vinaigrette and a bowl of apples and pears for dessert and you have a perfect winter meal.

House Pea Soup

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours

The soup thickens considerably when stored in the refrigerator or freezer. When ready to serve, gently reheat, stirring in water until it’s the consistency you like. The soup should be thick and well-seasoned.

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 large onions, chopped, about 4 cups

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 (1-pound) package green split peas, picked over and rinsed

4 (14 1/2-ounce) cans low-sodium chicken broth

4 cups water

1 smoked ham shank or 2 smoked ham hocks

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

6 large celery stalks, chopped, about 3 cups

5 slender carrots, thinly sliced, about 1 1/2 cups

* Heat oil in 5-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add 1 chopped onion (about 2 cups) and 1/2 tablespoon garlic. Cook until softened, stirring often, about 4 minutes. Add peas, broth, water, ham shank, bay leaves, thyme and pepper, then bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, 1 hour.

* Remove ham shank, trim meat off bone and return meat to pot. Discard bone. Add celery, carrots and remaining chopped onion and garlic.

* Simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until carrots are tender and soup slightly thickened, about 40 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste. Can be served immediately, refrigerated up to 4 days or frozen for up to 1 month.

6 to 8 main-course servings, 11 to 12 cups. Each of 8 servings: 258 calories; 1,665 mg sodium; 13 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 31 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 3.37 grams fiber.

Winter Minestrone

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 55 minutes * Vegetarian-Adaptable

Adding half the chard leaves just before serving makes the soup a bright green and the texture more interesting. If you’re making the soup a day ahead, just wrap the reserved leaves separately and refrigerate. Freezing makes this separate step impractical but the soup still tastes great. Celery can be substituted for the fennel, if you prefer.

2 bunches Swiss chard

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 red onions, roughly chopped, about 3 cups

1 large fennel bulb, roughly chopped, about 2 1/2 cups

3 slender carrots, thinly sliced, about 1 cup

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can tomato puree

3 (14 1/2-ounce) cans low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth

1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans or white kidney beans, rinsed and drained

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon red wine vinegar

1/4 teaspoon salt

Grated pecorino cheese (optional)

* Strip chard leaves from stems, then stack leaves and slice. Roughly chop stems.

* Heat oil in large pot over medium-high heat. Add onion, fennel, carrots, chard stems and garlic. Cook until onions soften, stirring often, about 12 minutes.

* Add 1/2 chard leaves, tomato puree, broth, beans, oregano, red pepper flakes, vinegar and salt. Stir well. Bring to boil then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 30 minutes. Soup should be thick; if it appears too thick, cautiously add more water to taste.

* Stir remaining chard leaves into hot soup few minutes before serving and cook until just heated through, about 1 minute. Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve immediately. Pass pecorino cheese separately.

6 to 8 main-course servings, 11 to 12 cups: Each of 8 servings: 173 calories; 794 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 28 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1.69 grams fiber.

Garlic-Herb Bread With Feta Cheese

Active Work Time: 12 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 30 minutes

Double the herb spread recipe if the bread slices are large. The spread can be made 3 days ahead and refrigerated or frozen up to 1 month. Let it soften before using.

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/2 cup parsley leaves

1/4 cup thickly sliced green onions

1 teaspoon dried basil

1/8 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons butter, softened

3 tablespoons olive oil

12 (1/2-inch thick) slices crusty bread, preferably with porous texture such as ciabatta

1/3 cup finely crumbled feta cheese

* Process garlic, parsley, green onions, basil, salt and pepper in mini-food processor until minced or puree with mortar and pestle. Add butter and oil. Process until mixed or stir in vigorously if doing by hand.

* Spread 1 side of bread slices with garlic-herb mixture. Place bread in single layer on baking sheets. Sprinkle with feta cheese, dividing evenly. Gently compress cheese onto bread with your hands.

* Bake on center rack of oven at 350 degrees until cheese is lightly browned, 15 to 18 minutes. Serve hot.

6 servings. Each serving: 328 calories; 509 mg sodium; 22 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 40 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.23 gram fiber.