1997 Freie Weingartner Wachau Gruner Veltliner, “Terrassen Thal Wachau,” Federspiel, Austria (About $10)

Warm weather, which calls for a crisp white wine, is here. An unexpected choice that’s unusually delicious and also a great bargain is this Gruner Veltliner from Freie Weingartner in the Wachau region west of Vienna. Grown on terraced vineyards (terassen thal), the indigenous Gruner Veltliner gives a very dry pale gold wine with a good concentration of fruit and hints of white pepper and green apple. It’s a taste that goes beautifully with Asian and fusion cuisines.

Available at Larchmont Village Wine Spirits & Cheese, Los Angeles, (323) 856-8699. If you can’t find this wine, ask your local store to order it from the distributor, Vin Divino, Chicago, (773) 334-6700.