The Iceman Loaneth
When nominations are announced and award invites arrive, Beverly Hills jeweler Martin Katz swings into action. The designer has “jeweled hundreds of actresses,” including Kate Winslet, Nicole Kidman, Kim Basinger, Minnie Driver, Anjelica Huston and Halle Berry. Katz describes the tribulations of procuring ice for style-obsessed starlets.
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Q: Who was the first celebrity to wear your jewels to the Oscars?
A: In 1993, Sharon Stone wore a flower brooch on her shawl and marquise diamond heart-shaped earrings that I designed. At first I didn’t want to do it because I’d never loaned jewelry [before]. It’s a big risk with no reward. So I made a deal with her that if she would do magazine covers for me, then I would loan her [jewelry] for these events. The payoff is the press. They get to wear beautiful jewelry and I get to showcase my work.
Q: Any trade secrets?
A: You must learn to speak to the lifestyle and perspective of the person wearing them. Courtney Love--I put on her a platinum-and-diamond lariat necklace. The necklace was sassy. And she’s sassy. She loved it.
Q: When does the what-will-I-wear anxiety start?
A: About two weeks before. The phone rings constantly. Last year, they changed their minds so many times, I termed it “Year of the Changing Dress.” And I think, frankly, they have too many cooks in the soup. I’ve encouraged so many of the actresses I know to have their own self-confidence and taste. And stop listening to so many people.
Q: Whom are you gearing up for tonight?
A: Helen Hunt. There’s a particular necklace that I’m making. I said, “If you like it, then I think we need to work the dress around it.” I did that with Ashley Judd last year. I told her I wanted to do the vintage in some rubies, so she stayed with a dress that was going to be compatible--this kind of neutral champagne color.
Q: Do you have a favorite piece?
A: A 1910 Edwardian natural pearl choker necklace with a platinum-and-diamond section that Sandra Bullock wore with her brown Calvin Klein dress. She looked terrific.
Q: Did she ask to wear it?
A: No, I pushed her into it.
