A Celebration of Seasons, and Seasonings, at Solstice

Solstice has just opened on Beverly Boulevard in a space vacated by Mexica, a Mexican restaurant. Mexica’s yellow, blue and white tiles remain because they fit the sunny theme of this new restaurant. Chef Hugo Veltman, in his first venture on his own, will adapt his menu to the seasons, bringing in new dishes four times a year, not just at the two solstices.

Veltman, formerly at Capri in Venice, describes his food jokingly as California cuisine without sushi. In reality, it is strongly French. An appetizer of shaved asparagus spears is topped with foie gras imported from France. The foie gras is seared, then topped with toasted hazelnuts and the foie gras drippings, laced with sherry vinegar. It is no accident that Veltman’s Mediterranean crayfish and mussel soup tastes like bouillabaisse. His wife is from Marseilles, the center of bouillabaisse, and Veltman has spent time there. Born in Geneva, he is Dutch and has cooked in Paris, so he knows this food from its source.

Potatoes, artichokes and corn baked en papillote are scented with tarragon, as if they had been plucked from a Provencal garden. The curry sauce that goes with potato-crusted whitefish tastes so faintly of curry it takes concentration to detect it. Reduced lobster stock, butter and lemon are the important components. Veltman’s light hand does wonders with cabbage. Rather than heavily braised, it is airy and light, a fine companion to Muscovy duck breast in a sweet, caramel sauce. Veltman cooks the duck skin side down to extract the fat and promote crispness. He adds pancetta and carrot to the cabbage.

Desserts couldn’t be prettier than sliced mango, fanned like the rays of the sun that is Solstice’s emblem, topped with warm sabayon and a spoonful of passion fruit sorbet. A chocolate napoleon coats feather-light layers of filo dough with French chocolate. These are stacked alongside a mound of honey ice cream on a plate laced with chocolate strands.

Prices are moderate for this type of food, and the wine list concentrates on bottles under $30. Among the pricier choices, Domaine Sirugue Gevrey-Chambertin 1995 ($42) is light and fragrant enough to pair well with almost anything on the menu.

BE THERE

Solstice, 7313 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 525-0405. Open for dinner Friday and Saturday from 5:30 to 11:30 p.m., to 11 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday. Appetizers $4.50 to $9; main courses $13.50 to $18; desserts $5. Wine and beer. Valet parking. Visa, MasterCard and American Express.