The Sweet Hereafter

Chocolate, pecans, apples and pumpkin are constants in my Thanksgiving desserts, and each year they show up in new creations. These three recipes are perfect examples; they make a mouth-watering repertoire that’s as bountiful as the celebration.

These desserts can be made ahead and frozen: Completely cool the baked dessert on a wire rack as directed in the recipe. Put the dessert uncovered (which prevents formation of ice crystals) in the freezer; for cupcakes, place them on a baking sheet in a single layer and freeze. Once they are frozen solid, place them in a large plastic food bag. Press out the air and seal airtight. Place the bag in another plastic bag and seal airtight. The double bagging protects the dessert from any off-flavors in the freezer. Freeze up to 1 month. To thaw, uncover the dessert and thaw at room temperature.

Bittersweet Souffle Cake

Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes plus 1 hour cooling

You can also make this cake without the whipped topping, dusting it simply with powdered sugar.

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, cut into pieces, plus more for greasing

1/4 cup strong brewed coffee

3 tablespoons cocoa powder, sifted

8 eggs (2 whole, 6 separated), room temperature

1 cup sugar

1 tablespoon dark rum

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

Dash salt

* Place chocolate, butter and coffee in microwaveable bowl and microwave until chocolate and butter are melted, about 1 1/2 minutes, stirring midway. Or place in double boiler set over, but not touching, simmering water, stirring until melted. Stir in cocoa until smooth. Set aside at room temperature to cool slightly.

* Use mixer to beat 2 eggs and 6 egg yolks and sugar on high speed until mixture is light-colored, thick and falls off beater in ribbons, 3 to 4 minutes. Add chocolate mixture and rum. Combine on low speed. Set aside.

* Beat 6 egg whites on medium speed until frothy. Add cream of tartar and salt. Beat on high speed until egg whites hold their shape but are still moist looking and slightly soft, 2 to 3 minutes.

* Stir 1/4 whites into chocolate mixture. Fold in remaining whites. Do not over-fold; some streaking of whites in batter is OK. Transfer to buttered 9 1/2-inch springform pan that has been lined with buttered parchment paper on bottom; smooth surface with rubber spatula.

* Bake at 325 degrees until top of cake is puffed and slightly cracked on edges and no longer jiggles in center (toothpick inserted in center will be moist but not coated with batter), about 45 to 50 minutes. Do not over-bake. Cool cake in pan on wire rack. (Can be baked in advance, cooled completely, covered and refrigerated for 1 day, or frozen up to 1 month, wrapped airtight after frozen solid. Thaw, unwrapped, until just chilled in refrigerator overnight or at room temperature for a few hours.)

ASSEMBLY

1 1/2 cups chilled whipping cream

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon cocoa powder

* Whip together whipping cream, powdered sugar and vanilla until soft, not stiff, 2 minutes. Chill before using to top cake.

* Remove springform collar and transfer cake from paper lining to serving platter. Swirl cream on cake with rubber spatula and press cocoa through fine sieve to dust cream. Use large sharp knife to cut into slices.

12 to 16 servings. Each of 16 servings: 277 calories; 178 mg sodium; 142 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.31 gram fiber.

Warm Granny Apple Crumble

Active Work Time: 45 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

CRUMBLE TOPPING:

1/2 cup flour

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup light brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Dash salt

5 tablespoons butter, room temperature, cut into small pieces

1/2 cup pecan pieces

* Combine flour, granulated sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon and salt in bowl of food processor. Add butter and pecans. Pulse until dough clumps together unevenly, 8 to 10 pulses. Transfer to plate and refrigerate while preparing apples.

ASSEMBLY

6 large Granny Smith apples (about 2 1/4 pounds), peeled, cored and thinly sliced

1/3 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 egg white, whisked until frothy

Vanilla ice cream, for serving

* Put apples in large bowl. Combine sugar and cinnamon. Add to apples and toss until uniformly coated. Transfer to 4-cup-capacity ceramic, glass or terra cotta pie plate, tucking slices together and mounding in center (this bulk will cook down). Spoon on Crumble Topping, spreading over surface evenly; gently pat into place. Dip brush in egg white and dab onto Crumble, repeating as needed; it’s OK if entire surface is not dabbed. Place plate on baking sheet to catch any drips.

* Bake in lower part of oven at 375 degrees until well-browned and bubbly, about 50 minutes. Test tenderness by piercing apples with toothpick or tip of paring knife; apples should be tender but not soft. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream. (Can be baked in advance, completely cooled, covered in foil and refrigerated for 2 days, or frozen up to 1 month, wrapped airtight after frozen solid. Let come to room temperature, unwrapped, before reheating. To reheat, bake uncovered in 325-degree oven for 20 minutes.)

8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings, without ice cream: 234 calories; 89 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 38 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.65 gram fiber.

Cream Cheese-Swirled Pumpkin Cupcakes

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature

1 1/4 cups sugar

3 eggs

1/2 cup oil

1 cup pumpkin puree

1 cup flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon salt

* Combine cream cheese, 1/4 cup sugar and 1 egg in bowl of food processor until smooth. Transfer to small bowl and set aside.

* Put 2 eggs, oil, 1 cup sugar and pumpkin in same processor bowl (without washing it). Mix until smooth, 20 to 30 seconds. Add flour, baking powder, cinnamon, baking soda, ginger, nutmeg and salt. Pulse until just combined. Spoon into muffin pans lined with paper cups, dividing batter evenly. (If baking in batches, remaining batter can be kept at room temperature while first batch is in the oven.) Spread cream cheese mixture over tops, dividing evenly. Use small measuring spoon to fold some pumpkin batter over cream cheese batter for marbled effect.

* Bake at 350 degrees until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Carefully remove cakes from pan and cool on wire rack. (Can be baked in advance, cooled completely, covered and kept at room temperature for 1 day, or frozen up to 1 month, wrapped airtight after frozen solid. Thaw, uncovered, at room temperature.)

14 cupcakes. Each cupcake: 242 calories; 175 mg sodium; 63 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 25 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.16 gram fiber.

Leaf plate and napkin from Salutations Home, Pasadena and Brentwood.