IN THE MOOD : Affogato

It’s the perfect summer dessert: hot espresso poured over ice cream, with a tuft of whipped cream on top. Of course, if you don’t want to stay up until the wee hours, better ask your waiter to make that espresso decaf.

* Cafe des Artistes: A lovely patio hideaway in downtown Hollywood serves cafe liegeois, an especially lively French version of affogato, which is made with coffee ice cream, espresso and whipped cream. (Cafe liegeois, $5.) Cafe des Artistes, 1534 McCadden Place, Hollywood, (323) 469-7300.

* Locanda del Lago: This attractive, roomy Italian restaurant on the Third Street Promenade features the lake foods of Italy (trout, pike, whitefish) and offers the classic affogato al caffe for dessert: vanilla ice cream doused with espresso and topped with whipped cream. (Affogato al caffe, $5.50.) Locanda del Lago, 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 451-3525.

* Al Gelato: Here’s a gelato parlor that makes a 16-ounce affogato with either hot or cold espresso and your choice of gelato--deeply flavored chocolate, smooth chocolate-hazelnut (gianduia), chocolate chip (stracchiatella), coffee crunch, coffee, cappuccino, burnt caramel . . . or an excellent vanilla. (Gelato con espresso, $5.50.) Al Gelato, 806 S. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 659-8069.

* Alto Palato: Gino Rindone, manager at this casually fancy Italian restaurant, is also the city’s most skilled gelato maker. “If you are affogato, you are drowning,” he says, so his excellent vanilla gelato drowns in hot espresso; no whipped cream necessary. Also, Rindone says, you can have it with chocolate gelato drowning in whiskey! (Affogatos, $7 to $9.) Alto Palato, 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 657-9271.

* Il Fornaio: At this reliable small chain of large, busy restaurants, the dessert menu lists the classic affogato al cafe: espresso poured over two scoops of vanilla bean ice cream and topped with whipped cream, $4.95. Il Fornaio, 301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 550-8330; 24 W. Union St., Pasadena, (626) 683-9797; 155 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 451-7800. 18051 Von Carman, Irvine, (949) 261-1444.

* Buster’s: At this South Pasadena coffeehouse and ice cream parlor, the counter people don’t call it affogato, they call it what it is: a scoop of vanilla ice cream with a shot of espresso. (One scoop of ice cream, $1.45; shot of espresso, $1.) Buster’s, 1006 Mission St., South Pasadena, (626) 441-0744.

* Vincenti: Although it only appears on the specials menu once a week, affogato is always available on request. It’s made with the restaurant’s own vanilla bean ice cream and topped with Illy espresso (the only espresso the late Mauro Vincenti would ever drink) and served in an elegant martini glass. (Affogato, $8.) Vincenti Ristorante, 11930 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, (310) 207-0127.