1994 Cha^teau Simone Palette, Provence, (About $27)

Palette is one of those tiny French wine appellations, like Cha^teau Grillet, that test a connoisseur’s knowledge. It’s a small district (just shy of 50 acres) near Aix-en-Provence, Cezanne’s hometown, that produces excellent reds, whites and roses. Cha^teau Simone, for seven generations in the Rougier family, is the largest estate there. I’ve enjoyed countless bottles of its whites with soupe de poissons and grilled fish, but in 1997, it’s the Palette rouge that stands out. Made from a blend of Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault grapes, it evokes dark plums, cherries and blackberries. It’s a red wine with structure and grip, silky in texture: One sip is enough to get your attention.

Available at Beverage Warehouse, Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822, and Wally’s, Westwood, (310) 475-0606. If you can’t find this wine, have your retailer contact the distributor, Robert Chadderdon Selections, (510) 638-5200.