Honor Thy Fruitcake

I am going to spare you the usual fruitcake jokes (bricks, door stoppers . . . you’ve heard them all) and cut to higher ground. Fruitcakes are deserving of some respect in the culinary collective, if only because they are quite beyond tradition--they hedge on antiquity itself. To follow the trail of how fruitcake came to be is a quick course in the evolution of modern baking.

Fruitcake’s most ancient direct ancestor may have been panforte (pronounced pan-fort-ay), a dense, low-slung confection of fruits and nuts. The name literally means “strong bread.” Try biting into some and you will see immediately why the name stuck.

Made with citron and cinnamon, as well as the Middle Age’s beloved honey, spice-laden panforte traveled well and tasted ambrosial. It can be found in many gourmet shops in this country--most of it imported from Sienna, Italy, where a panforte industry not only exists but thrives.

Alongside panforte, the Middle Ages produced less-strong breads sweetened with dried fruits. Their descendants are the festival breads still made in European countries. During the 19th century, baking powder replaced yeast in the English-speaking world’s fruited breads, vastly changing their texture and taste, making them into cake.

Fruitcake is still beloved in Britain, Australia and New Zealand, but somehow we North American colonialists merely tolerate it. Aside from references to “Martha Washington’s Great Cake”--a cholesterol and caloric wonder of 40 eggs and four pounds of butter that comes up in several old American cookbooks--most fruitcake recipes hail from Britain.

In any event, I am unashamed to admit that fruitcakes are still adored by bakers--at least speaking for myself. The special event marks our calendar as an occasion to go all out and produce the most lavish fruitcake ever--awash in brandy or whiskey, lovely candied fruits and a heady batter of butter, fresh eggs and flour.

Now is the time to begin preparations for aged fruitcakes. Both pro and home bakers alike pride themselves on their special fruit and spice mix. In fact, nothing stirs up the average baking grandma more than asking her what makes the best fruitcake. With jam or a grated apple or two? White or brown sugar? Fruit macerated or not? Brandy, wine, rum or naught? Green cherries or only red? Nuts or not? Baking powder or none? Coat with apricot jam, or an overcoat of marzipan, or just cheesecloth soaked in spirits?

In the end, the only thing to do is choose a fruitcake. Tuck into some, or simply tuck a slice under your pillow. Either way, it’s staying stuff.

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Goldman runs the Baker Boulanger Web site, https://www.betterbaking.com

Ageless Fruitcake

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 3 hours plus 2 hours standing

Use the same liquor for soaking that you use in the cake.

1 1/2 cups dark raisins

1 1/4 cups golden raisins

1/2 cup currants

1 cup mixed candied orange and lemon peel, chopped

1 cup whole candied cherries, plus more for optional garnish

1 cup dates, pitted, chopped and packed

3/4 cup brandy, dark rum or whiskey, very hot

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, melted and cooled

1 3/4 cups granulated sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar, packed

2 eggs

2 tablespoons honey or corn syrup

3 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1 1/2 cups chopped walnuts

Nonstick cooking spray

Brandy, dark rum or whiskey, for soaking

* A couple of hours or up to 2 days before preparing fruitcake, place dark raisins, golden raisins, currants, orange and lemon peel, cherries and dates in a large bowl. Toss with hot brandy, rum or whiskey, cover and set aside.

* Blend butter with granulated and brown sugars in large bowl, then blend in eggs and honey. Fold in flour, salt, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves, then fold in fruit and nuts. Make sure bottom of batter is well blended.

* Line 2 (9x5-inch) loaf pans with parchment paper and spray with nonstick cooking spray. Spoon batter into prepared pans. Garnish top of cake with extra cherries, if desired. Place on baking sheet (this protects bottom of cakes from baking more than tops) and bake at 325 degrees until browned, toothpick inserted in middle comes out clean and cake springs back when lightly touched, 2 1/2 hours. If tops are baking faster than interior, cover tops with foil and reduce heat to 300 degrees.

* Let cakes rest in pans 15 minutes before removing to rack to cool completely. Slice or soak (see box).

24 servings. Each serving: 434 calories; 179 mg sodium; 41 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 75 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 2.41 grams fiber.

Tea, Orange and Raisin Fruitcake

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours plus 4 hours standing

Orange oil can be found at gourmet markets.

1 1/2 cups dark brown sugar, packed

1 1/2 cups freshly brewed strong tea

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/2 cup dark raisins

3/4 cup currants

1/4 cup candied orange peel, chopped

1/4 cup brandy

1/4 teaspoon orange oil, optional

2 cups flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

2 teaspoons grated orange zest

1 egg

2 tablespoons butter, melted

Nonstick cooking spray

* Four hours or the night before baking the cake, stir brown sugar and tea together in medium nonaluminum mixing bowl to dissolve sugar. Stir in golden raisins, dark raisins, currants, orange peel, brandy and orange oil. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside.

* Mix together flour, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and lemon and orange zests to blend. Add to fruit mixture. Stir in egg and melted butter, then mix to make a loose batter.

* Spray 8x4-inch loaf pan with cooking spray. Pour batter into pan. Bake at 325 degrees until dark brown, loaf springs back when touched lightly and toothpick inserted in middle comes out clean, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Cover top with foil and reduce heat to 300 degrees if top is getting too dark. Cool in pan 15 minutes, then turn out and cool on rack. Wrap well.

12 servings. Each serving: 272 calories; 152 mg sodium; 26 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 59 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 1.33 grams fiber.

New Age Fruitcake

Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 3 hours plus 1 hour standing

Lemon and orange oils can be found at gourmet markets.

4 cups dried apricots, soaked in warm water 5 minutes (half quartered, half left whole)

2 cups golden raisins

1/2 cup dark raisins

1/2 cup crushed canned pineapple, drained

1/2 cup candied orange peel

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest, finely minced

2 teaspoons grated orange zest, finely minced

1/4 teaspoon lemon oil or extract

1/4 teaspoon orange oil or extract

3/4 cup hot brandy

2 tablespoons orange liqueur, such as Triple Sec or Cointreau

1 tart apple, grated

2 cups pecans

3/4 cup broken walnuts

1 cup (2 sticks) butter

1 3/4 cup sugar

4 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 cups flour

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

Nonstick cooking spray

Brandy, orange liqueur, half-and-half or apple juice, for soaking

* An hour or up to 2 days before baking, place apricots, golden and dark raisins, pineapple, candied orange peel, lemon and orange zest and lemon and orange oils in a large bowl and toss with hot brandy and orange liqueur. Cover and set aside.

* Just before making cake batter, stir apple, pecans and walnuts into fruit mixture.

* Cream butter with sugar, then blend in eggs and vanilla. Fold in baking powder, salt, flour, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, ginger and allspice, then fruit and nut mixture to make a thick but well-blended batter.

* Line 2 (9x5-inch) loaf pans with parchment paper. Spray with nonstick cooking spray. Spoon batter into pans. Set pans on a baking sheet (this protects bottom of cakes from baking more than tops) and bake at 325 degrees until golden brown, cakes spring back with lightly touched and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 2 1/2 hours. Cover tops with foil if tops are baking faster than interior and reduce heat to 300 degrees.

* Let cakes rest in pan 15 minutes before removing to a cake rack to cool completely. Slice or saok (see box).

24 servings. Each serving: 500 calories; 196 mg sodium; 62 mg cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 78 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 2.50 grams fiber.

Chocolate Cherry Fruitcake

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 3 hours plus 4 hours standing

Dried sour cherries are sold at stores such as Trader Joe’s. You can also try a coffee liqueur such as Kahlua in place of brandy for the soaking liquid. Serve after cooling or wrap in a soaked cheesecloth and store.

2 cups dark raisins

2 cups dried sour cherries

1/2 cup maraschino cherries, drained

3/4 cup dried cranberries

1/4 cup brandy, very hot

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, melted and cooled

4 eggs

2 cups sugar

2 1/2 cups flour

1/2 cup cocoa powder, measured then sifted

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1 teaspoon cherry or raspberry extract

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup raspberry or apricot jam

2 cups walnuts, broken

1 cup coarsely chopped semi-sweet chocolate or chocolate chips

Nonstick cooking spray

Brandy, for soaking

* Four hours or up to 1 day before baking, place raisins, sour and maraschino cherries and cranberries in a large bowl. Toss with hot brandy, cover and set aside.

* Blend melted butter with eggs. Add sugar, flour, cocoa powder, salt, baking powder, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg.

* Add raspberry extract, vanilla and jam to fruit mixture, then stir in walnuts and chocolate chips. Fold fruit mixture into batter. Blend well.

* Spray 2 (9x5-inch) loaf pans with nonstick cooking spray and line with parchment paper. Spoon batter into pans. Place pans on baking sheet and bake at 325 degrees until dark brown, cakes spring back when lightly touched and toothpick inserted in middle comes out clean, 2 to 2 1/2 hours.

* Cool in pans 15 minutes before removing to rack to cool completely. Slice or soak (see box).

24 servings. Each serving: 113 calories; 10 mg sodium; 2 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.77 gram fiber.

Christmas Cherry Pound Cake

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 1/4 hours

You can also make this in a 6-cup bundt pan or an 8-inch round cake pan.

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

1/2 cup warm milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

2 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup maraschino cherries, well drained, some cut in half, some left whole, plus more halves for optional garnish

Nonstick cooking spray

* Cream butter with sugar until light and fluffy. Add eggs and blend well. Add milk, vanilla and almond extracts. Stir in flour, baking powder and salt to make a smooth batter, making sure bottom of batter is well combined. Fold in cherries.

* Spoon batter into 8x4-inch loaf pan coated with nonstick cooking spray. Top with cherry halves if desired, pressing lightly into cake batter. Bake at 350 degrees until golden and toothpick inserted in middle comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Cool on rack 10 minutes before removing from pan.

8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 265 calories; 321 mg sodium; 76 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 37 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.68 gram fiber.

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Soaking instructions

All of these fruitcakes can be sliced and served after cooling, but the Ageless Fruitcake, Chocolate Cherry Fruitcake and New Age Fruitcake benefit from soaking. Let cakes cool completely, then poke holes all over cake surfaces with a cake tester or long skewer. Soak large cheesecloths in soaking liquid and wrap them around cakes, covering completely. Wrap cakes in plastic and then clean tea towels, and place them in cake tins. You can also place loaves in resealable plastic bags and seal them part way. Refresh alcohol once a week or whenever you notice cheesecloth is dried out.