Winter on Arizona Avenue

Even in the cooler months, the Wednesday Santa Monica farmers market offers an amazing array of fine produce, both staples and exotics.

Last week, Maryann Carpenter of Coastal Organics, from Camarillo, sold tender baby Brussels sprouts, sweet Sugarcrisp yellow carrots, maroon Nutri-Red carrots and crinkled savoy cabbage, softer in texture and milder in flavor than regular cabbage. Dennis Peitso and Joyce Meers of Maggie’s Farm, who grow in Tarzana, had delicate ma^che (also known as corn salad), which thrives in cool weather.

Kachi Takahashi of Carson’s Top Veg sold parsnips (rare in farmers markets) and celery root, from the same species as celery though it’s cultivated just for the large round root, which is classically sliced thin and served in a remoulade sauce. Jerry Rutiz of Arroyo Grande had tender young celery, spinach, fennel and fiery red-orange ristras (strings) of Santa Fe and cayenne hot peppers.

Decked out in a bright red Cambodian shirt, Bill Coleman of Carpinteria set out his usual dazzling display of exotic greens, including Sugarloaf chicory, which looks like densely packed romaine but has the pleasingly bitter taste of closely related radicchio and endive. He also had succulent, rich-flavored little strawberry guavas, crunchy acidic yellow kei fruit and fabulous sapotes, some just ripe, tasting like heavenly banana custard.

Laura Ramirez of Bryn Mawr, with the sunniest smile in the market, offered Fuerte avocados, Mexican (Key) limes and trays of quiveringly ripe Hachiya persimmons. Kim and Clarence Blain of Lake Hughes, beloved custodians of the obscure, sold decorative sprigs of tiny blue rootstock persimmons, sometimes called date plums; conical Taninashi persimmons, astringent when unripe, very sweet when soft; and Winter Nellis pears, rare winter pears, small and mottled but superbly flavorful.

From Dinuba, Troy Regier brought Satsuma mandarins, now at peak quality. Dave Da Vall of Thermal had exquisitely soft Honey dates, which originated from a seedling of Deglet Noor planted by his great-great-uncle in 1916.

Most markets are lucky to have one quality fish vendor, but Santa Monica has two: J.R. and Dee Gorgita sold sweet little ridge-back shrimp, caught off Santa Barbara, and whole sole, squid and octopus; Kathy Tsunoda of Anjin II, which docks at Channel Islands Harbor, brought fresh filets of ahi tuna, halibut, red snapper and sand dabs.

David West offered a bounty of winter mushrooms, gathered near Crescent City: hedgehogs, with a delicate, nutty taste; black trumpets, with a smoky fragrance; pig’s ears, big floppy brown fungi with a flavor similar to that of porcini stems; and both black and white Oregon truffles.

David and Maggie Schack of Redwood Hill Farm had excellent goat cheeses made by their daughter-in-law, Jennifer Bice, in Sebastopol: creamy fresh cheeses, feta, smoked Cheddar and crusty stronger-flavored crottins.

At today’s market, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., they will host a tasting with Laura Werlin celebrating the publication of her book, “The New American Cheese.”

Santa Monica farmers market, Arizona Avenue and 2nd Street, Wednesdays, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.