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1999 Mad Fish Western Australia Chardonnay, Australia

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Mad Fish Chardonnay, from cool-climate Western Australia, is so different from the usual oaky style that you may not at first recognize this fresh, fruity white as Chardonnay. Without the overlay of wood and vanilla, the lusciousness of the grape comes through. This vintage is graced with citrus and tropical fruit aromas and drinks oh, so easily. And at around $12, this delightful, not too serious wine makes a great aperitif. With its zany name and aborigine art label, Mad Fish sticks in the mind. You can take it anywhere: It loves parties.

About $12. Available at Wine House in West L.A., (310) 479-3731; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; and Whole Foods markets, various locations. If you can’t find this wine, ask your retailer to call the distributor, Epic Wines, (800) 322-3742.

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