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1997 Mueller Pinot Noir ‘Ranch 23,’ Russian River, Sonoma

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This wine, from Mueller’s plot called Ranch 23, is an elegant, polished, delicately etched Pinot with a sweet, pretty nose and a lovely lacy quality. It leaves a whisper of flavor behind that’s intriguing enough to entice you back to the glass again and again.

About $24. Available at Beverage Warehouse, Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Dome Liquors, Fullerton, (714) 524-0800; Hi-Time Wine Cellars, Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; and The Wine Exchange, Orange, (714) 974-1454. If you can’t find this wine, ask your retailer to contact Robert Mueller Cellars, (707) 431-1353.

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