Wild Tomatillos

The 20-year-old Adams and Vermont farmers market, set in a church parking lot, continues to fulfill its original mandate of providing wholesome, inexpensive produce to its neighborhood.

Last Wednesday Santiago Santillan, who farms in Seal Beach, brought fresh garbanzo beans still in their fuzzy pods so they still taste like peas; squash vines, to be cooked as a vegetable; epazote, a leafy herb used to flavor many Mexican dishes; and purslane, which is eaten raw in salads, steamed, pickled or stir-fried. With jovial machismo, Santillan picked up spiny nopalitos, cactus paddles, with his leathery bare hands. “As long as I don’t rub them the wrong way, it’s no problem,” he said with a grin.

Jesus Gama of Arvin featured sought-after tomatillos milperos, also known as wild tomatillos, considered the best-flavored kind, with a sharp flavor that’s perfect for hot sauces. He also sold tomatoes, green peppers, onions and eggs. Miguel Cervantes of Santa Ana had hot peppers: large dark green poblanos for stuffing; long, mildly spicy Anaheims; fierce orange serranos; green jalapenos; and yellow Caribes.

Jose Flores of J&C; Ranch sold very sweet and juicy Valencia oranges from Fillmore, now at peak season, and a bargain at $2 for a 10-pound bag. Dennis Jones brought pretty good seedless watermelons and yellow-fleshed Ambra plums from his farm in Exeter and super-sweet Arctic Rose white nectarines, the best of the low-acid varieties, from another grower in Patterson. Jess Swope’s stand, from Selma, had amazing white nectarines with skin so glossy and deep red they looked like apples; their gorgeous pink-white flesh was sweet but otherwise flavorless.

Adams and Vermont farmers market, St. Agnes Church, southwest corner of Adams Boulevard and Vermont Avenue, Los Angeles, Wednesdays, June through August, 1:15 to 6 p.m.; September through May, 2 to 5:30 p.m.