Three-Star Puffs
I have rediscovered the magic of gougeres, the Gruyere-flavored choux (cream puff) pastry dough typically shaped into individual rounds or a ring. When I started using my food processor in the early 1970s, they were the star of my cooking classes, not to mention my cocktail parties and small suppers. Nothing could be easier to make, more practical in terms of yield and cost or more popular.
On my visit to Paris a year ago, these gougeres--without the herbs--were still being served at the three-star Taillevent restaurant along with aperitifs. My recipe is adapted from its kitchen.
The fallen bacon puff is a cross between a thin quiche and a pancake. It can also be made into individual cocktail puffs.
Gougeres aux Herbes (Cocktail Puffs With Herbs)
Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 40 minutes
1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1/4 pound Gruyere cheese, preferably imported, rind trimmed, cut into cubes
2/3 cup water
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold milk
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, plus more for greasing
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup flour
4 eggs
1 egg mixed with 1/2 teaspoon salt
* Place chives, thyme and cheese in processor bowl. Process until cheese is coarsely chopped; set aside on foil. Do not wash bowl.
* Bring water, 1/3 cup milk, butter, salt, nutmeg and pepper to boil in small saucepan over medium heat. Remove pan from heat. Use wooden spoon to vigorously stir in flour until mixture is well combined and leaves side of pan, about 1 minute. Return to heat and cook, stirring often, 2 minutes.
* Transfer dough to processor bowl. Turn on processor and add 4 eggs through feed tube, stopping once to scrape down sides, until mixture is thick and smooth, about 20 seconds. Add remaining milk; process 5 seconds. Add reserved cheese mixture; process 5 seconds more.
* Grease 2 baking sheets and sprinkle lightly with water (steam will release puffs from pan after they are baked). Put dough into pastry bag fitted with 3/4-inch-wide tube; pipe into 1 1/4-inch rounds on pans with 1-inch spacing. Alternately, use tablespoon to place rounds onto pan, pushing dough off with your finger. Use your finger to dab egg wash onto puffs, smoothing any rough edges.
* Bake at 400 degrees until golden brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Use spatula to transfer to wire racks to rest 10 minutes. Serve warm. (Can be baked several hours ahead and kept at room temperature; reheat in 300-degree oven 8 minutes and serve warm. Or, arrange puffs in single layer on baking sheets and freeze. Frozen puffs can then be packed in airtight bags and frozen up to 1 month. Reheat unthawed puffs, uncovered, in single layer on baking sheet in 300-degree oven 10 to 12 minutes. Serve warm.)
40 (1 1/2-inch) puffs or 20 cocktail servings. Each of 20 servings: 107 calories; 261 mg sodium; 72 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.04 gram fiber.
Fallen Bacon Puff
Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour
Serve this pancake-like quiche at brunch with fruit or for lunch or supper with salad or soup.
2 green onions, including green tops, cut into 2-inch pieces
1/4 pound Gruyere cheese, preferably imported, rind trimmed, cut into cubes
2/3 cup water
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold milk
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, plus more for greasing
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup flour
4 eggs
4 cooked bacon slices, crumbled
1 egg mixed with 1/2 teaspoon salt
* Place green onions and cheese in processor bowl. Process until cheese is coarsely chopped; set aside on foil. Do not wash bowl.
* Bring water, 1/3 cup milk, butter, salt, nutmeg and pepper to taste to boil in small saucepan over medium heat. Remove pan from heat. Use wooden spoon to vigorously stir in flour until mixture is well combined and leaves side of pan, about 1 minute. Return to heat and cook, stirring often, 2 minutes.
* Transfer dough to processor bowl. Turn on processor and add 4 eggs through feed tube, stopping once to scrape down sides, until mixture is thick and smooth, about 20 seconds. Add remaining milk; process 5 seconds. Add reserved cheese mixture and bacon; process 5 seconds more.
* Grease 8-inch tart pan with removable ring and lightly sprinkle with water (steam will release puff from pan after it is baked). Transfer dough to tart pan. Use your finger dipped in egg-salt mixture to even dough’s thickness and smooth any rough edges.
* Bake at 400 degrees until well browned, about 27 to 30 minutes. Let rest 10 minutes. Remove from tart pan. Cut into wedges. Serve warm.
8 servings. Each serving: 285 calories; 704 mg sodium; 183 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.06 gram fiber.