1998 Domaine D’Andezon Co^tes-du-Rho^ne Villages

Here’s the wine for summer barbecues, when you need a sturdy red to stand up to all that char and smoke. It’s a Co^te-du-Rho^ne Villages, i.e., one step up from generic Co^tes-du-Rho^ne. The bull on the label says it all: This is a wild one--inky, unfiltered, laced with the taste of dark wild berries and something feral, bearing a scent of violets and smoke. Beautiful juice.

About $12. Available at Los Angeles Wine Co. in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-9463; Wild Oats in Santa Monica, (310) 395-8489; Wine Club in Santa Ana, (714) 835-6485; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454. If you can’t find this wine, ask your retailer to contact the distributor, Regal Wine Co., (800) 886-3425.