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The Essential Picnic

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Mandel is a cookbook author

To me, barbecued chicken tastes better in the heat of summer than any other time of year. It’s perfect for a buffet or picnic. But to satisfy my taste, I started a quest for a lighter, bronzed rendition of barbecued chicken; no thick, cloying, totally tomato-based sauce for me.

Here’s a barbecued chicken redolent of garlic, sage and rosemary. It’s best marinated overnight so the flavor permeates the chicken. To barbecue, use the indirect method. This means that you have to arrange your fire or heat so that it is hottest away from the chicken, surrounding it but not under it. The chicken will burn over direct heat.

Balsamic Barbecued Chicken With Garlic, Rosemary and Sage

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 1/2 hours plus 8 hours marinating

This barbecue sauce has a thinner consistency than most; it’s used as a marinade and also as a sauce to pass at the table.

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2/3 cup balsamic vinegar

2/3 cup honey

3/4 cup ketchup

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons minced garlic

3 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary

3 tablespoons minced fresh sage

1 1/4 teaspoons red pepper flakes

1 (3 1/2-pound) chicken, cut into 8 pieces

2 cups mesquite chips, soaked in water to cover for 1 hour, then drained

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

Freshly ground pepper

* Combine vinegar, honey, ketchup, oil, garlic, rosemary, sage and pepper flakes in food processor or blender. You will have about 2 cups. Place chicken in resealable plastic food bag and pour 1 cup over chicken. Through plastic bag, work marinade around chicken. Seal bag and place in shallow pan. Refrigerate overnight, turning bag occasionally.

* Simmer remaining 1 cup sauce in small saucepan, uncovered, 5 minutes. Strain, discarding solids. (Can be refrigerated up to 1 week. Reheat before serving.)

* Prepare grill for indirect grilling. When hot, toss half of chips on each pile of coals, if using charcoal. For gas, put chips in smoker box.

* Transfer chicken from marinade to pan; reserve marinade. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Grill chicken over indirect heat, turning after 30 minutes and brushing often with reserved marinade (use it all), until fully cooked and bronzed, about 60 to 70 minutes. Internal temperature (taken in thickest part of thigh) should be at least 165 degrees. Pass warm barbecue sauce separately.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 338 calories; 543 mg sodium; 97 mg cholesterol; 22 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 24 grams protein; 0.34 gram fiber.

Bread Salad With Blue Cheese

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 30 minutes

Use just enough vinegar and oil to flavor and moisten the vegetables and bread, avoiding a soggy mixture. Substitute vegetables as they appeal to you at the market; you’ll need a total of 3 1/2 to 4 cups diced vegetables for this salad.

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1 (8-ounce) crusty white or whole wheat baguette, cut into 1-inch cubes (about 4 cups)

1 large tomato, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

3/4 cup coarsely chopped Italian parsley

1/2 sweet onion, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1/2 small trimmed fennel bulb, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 cup raw young corn kernels, cut from 1 or 2 cobs

1/3 cup crumbled mild blue cheese

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

* Place bread, tomato, parsley, onion, fennel, corn and blue cheese in large bowl. Toss until mixed. Add oil; toss again. Add vinegar; toss. Taste and add salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 223 calories; 366 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 29 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.15 grams fiber.

Warm Fresh Peach Pudding Cakes

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

These are best served with scoops of vanilla ice cream.

SLICED PEACH TOPPING

3 large ripe peaches

1 to 2 tablespoons sugar

* Cut shallow “‘X” in bottom of each peach and carefully immerse in large pot of boiling water. After 15 seconds, remove 1 and try to pull peel back. If it comes away easily, remove peaches and rinse under cold water before peeling. Cut peaches in half and remove pits. Cut into slices. Toss with sugar and let rest at room temperature 1 hour.

CAKES

Butter, for greasing

2/3 cup cake flour, plus more for preparing souffle dishes

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 large ripe peaches

6 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces, room temperature

2/3 cup sugar

1 egg

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 tablespoons sour cream (light or fat-free are OK)

* Generously grease 6 (2/3-cup) souffle dishes or custard cups. Lightly coat each with flour, tapping out excess. Set aside on baking sheet.

* Sift 2/3 cup flour, baking soda and salt. Set aside.

* Peel peaches, cut in half and remove pits. Place 1 1/2 peaches in food processor fitted with metal blade; puree. You should have about 3/4 to 1 cup. Add butter, sugar, egg and vanilla. Process until smooth. Spoon sour cream in circle on batter; spoon dry ingredients over. Pulse until just mixed; it’s OK if a little flour remains on surface.

* Ladle 1/4 cup batter into each prepared dish. Cut remaining peaches into very thin slices. Arrange slices, overlapping, on batter, dividing evenly. Spoon remaining batter over, dividing evenly.

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* Bake at 350 degrees until browned and a toothpick inserted into center comes out moist but not gooey, about 30 to 32 minutes. Cool slightly on wire rack. Invert on dessert plates. (Can be baked a day ahead, completely cooled and refrigerated, covered airtight. Let come to room temperature before reheating. To serve, reheat cakes, uncovered, in 225-degree oven 15 minutes.)

* Top with Sliced Peach Topping and juices, dividing evenly. Serve immediately.

6 servings. Each serving: 297 calories; 229 mg sodium; 68 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 43 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.58 gram fiber.

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