1998 Domaine de Lalande Ma^con Chanes “Les Serreudiere,” Burgundy

This ripe but lean Chardonnay hails from the Ma^con-Villages area of Burgundy, just north of Beaujolais country. It has aromatic notes of melon and citrus, and its good acidity makes it a great companion for shellfish; say, a bowl of mussels steamed in white wine and shallots, served with plenty of bread to mop up the sauce. It would also be brilliant with clam chowder or a classic plateau de fruits de mer--one of those splendid tiered platters of raw and cooked “fruits of the sea.”

About $11. Available at Wine Club, 2110 E. McFadden Ave., Santa Ana, (714) 835-6485. If you can’t find this wine, have your retailer call the importer, Martine’s Wines, (415) 883-0400.