It’s Dessert Season

The holidays are the time of year when dessert finally takes on as much importance as the main course. Neighborhood gatherings, office parties and family get-togethers coax us into the spirit of the season with high-piled platters of sweet irresistibles.

Even for non-bakers, the primal urge to bake sets in. Ovens that haven’t been turned on in months heat and sizzle. The familiar scents of cloves and toasting nuts saturate our senses, conjuring up childhood memories and joyful moments with faraway relatives. The spirit of holidays past compels us to dig out old recipes and bake extravagant arrays of cookies, fancy fruit tarts and mounds of candies.

It’s easy to get carried away. An elaborately decorated bu^che de Noel might dazzle everyone, but who has the time for such a project?

This is definitely not the season to experiment. Complicated recipes and a sink full of batter-coated gadgets will only add to the pressure and turn you into a grumbling grinch. The last thing you need is a long list of ingredients stuffed in your bulging date book . . . behind all those other shopping lists.

So choose recipes that won’t overwhelm you. The following desserts, though plain-looking, are not too involved and will create a lasting impression. Once out of the oven, they ask for only a simple touch, such as a light dusting of powdered sugar or a quick-to-make toffee sauce.

They’re not shy when it comes to flavor. Nut Slices, for instance, spiked with cinnamon and filled with toasted nuts, bring warm and cozy memories of Grandma. My version of the English classic Sticky Toffee Pudding gets its deep dark color and sweet, intense flavor from dates.

If you’ve never tasted Panforte, you’re in for a surprise. This Italian confection, filled with fruits and toasted nuts, makes a satisfyingly chewy and spicy dessert.

A little goes a long way, so don’t slice the wedges too large. If you want to give it away to friends or loved ones, bake it in small discs, wrap them in brown butcher paper and tie with twine, the way they do in Siena. They will keep for months.

In fact, you can get a head start on your gift list by baking on the weekends. Make Cranberry Almond Tea Bread, for example, wrap it in cellophane and tie the ends with silk ribbon; its glistening almond topping will shine through.

The stars of these desserts are the ingredients, so be sure to choose the best. Don’t settle for that hard, mysterious clump of fruit stashed in your refrigerator last year.

Use dried fruit that is fresh, moist and plump. Check out the dried fruit vendors at your local farmers market. Unlike commercial dried fruit, their products are soft and supple because they’re from the latest crop. You’ll find unusual varieties there, such as broken heart plums, flame raisins, Bosc pears, white nectarines and a wide range of dates, such as Khadrawi, Halawi and Medjool.

The same goes for spices. Throw out those 5-year-old jars of ground spices in your pantry. Buy a spice grinder and grind small batches of whole spices. Perry Doty is my favorite spice merchant. His little shop on Fairfax Avenue in Los Angeles, All Spice, stocks premium spices and other ingredients used for baking. If you must buy your spices already ground, buy them as fresh as possible from a quality mail-order source.

When you get that urge to bake this year, give in. Just keep it sweet and simple. You just might find yourself baking these holiday desserts all year long.

All Spice is at 507 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles. (323) 782-1893.

Another good source for fresh spices is Penzeys. Call (800) 741-7787 to order a catalog or go to the Web site at www.penzeys.com.

Silverton, who owns La Brea Bakery, is author of the newly published “Nancy Silverton’s Pastries from the La Brea Bakery” (Villard Books, $35).

Cranberry Almond Tea Bread

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 1/2 hours

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) plus 1 tablespoon butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped lemon zest

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

3 eggs, separated

1 teaspoon almond extract

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 1/2 cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons plain yogurt

1/2 (heaping cup) fresh or frozen cranberries

Melted butter, for greasing

* Cream butter, baking soda and lemon zest in bowl of electric mixer until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add half the sugar, turn the mixer to medium, and mix 3 to 4 minutes until light and fluffy, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Turn mixer to low and add egg yolks, 1 at a time. Add almond extract and lemon juice, and mix until just combined.

* Add flour and yogurt alternately in 3 batches and mix on low until just combined. Remove bowl from mixer and transfer batter to large bowl.

* Wash and dry bowl of electric mixer. Using whisk attachment, whip egg whites on low until frothy, about 2 to 3 minutes. Turn mixer to medium and beat another 2 to 3 minutes until soft peaks form. Turn mixer to high and gradually add remaining sugar and beat until shiny and stiff, 1 to 2 minutes.

* Stir half of egg whites into batter to loosen it. Fold in remaining egg whites, then fold in cranberries.

* Lightly coat 9x5-inch loaf pan with melted butter and set aside.

* Pour batter into pan, smooth evenly and set aside.

ASSEMBLY

1 egg white

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sliced unblanched almonds

* Whisk egg white until frothy in medium bowl. Stir in sugar and almonds. Pour topping onto batter and spread evenly over surface.

* Bake at 350 degrees until topping is nicely browned and loaf is firm to the touch, 45 minutes. Halfway through baking, check loaf. If it has cracked through the topping, press it down with the palms of your hands to deflate and continue baking. You should have a solid, crispy nut surface.

8 servings. Each serving: 432 calories; 450 mg sodium; 136 mg cholesterol; 26 grams fat; 45 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.87 grams fiber.

Sticky Toffee Pudding

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

When I was introduced to Tamara Milstein, an Australian cookbook writer, the first thing I asked was, “Do you have a good recipe for sticky toffee pudding?” Don’t be confused by the name pudding, a term the English use for all desserts. It’s similar to carrot cake, super-moist and filled with supple chunks of dates.

BATTER

7 large, soft Medjool dates

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/4 cups water

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes

1 cup dark brown sugar, lightly packed

3 eggs

1 1/4 cups plus 1 1/2 tablespoons self-rising flour

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Melted butter, for greasing

* Cut dates in half, remove pits and slice them into thirds. Place them in a small bowl. In a small saucepan, combine baking soda with water and bring to a boil. Pour liquid over dates and allow them to cool.

* Cream butter in bowl of electric mixer on low, 2 to 3 minutes, until softened. Add brown sugar and mix on medium 3 to 4 minutes, until light and fluffy, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.

* Lightly beat eggs, then pour them into mixing bowl, a little at a time, mixing on medium-low until incorporated. Turn mixer to low and add flour, mixing until combined. Stir in date mixture and vanilla. Mixture will be thin.

* Grease 10-inch springform pan with melted butter and set on baking sheet. Pour batter into pan, smoothing evenly. Bake at 350 degrees until spongy, slightly firm to the touch and nicely browned, 30 to 35 minutes. Allow cake to cool, then invert onto a flat surface.

TOFFEE SAUCE:

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) plus 2 teaspoons butter

1 vanilla bean

1 cup whipping cream

1 cup dark brown sugar, lightly packed

* Melt butter in small saucepan over medium-low heat. Using a small paring knife, split vanilla bean lengthwise and, with back of knife, scrape out pulp and seeds and add to butter along with pod.

* When butter is melted, stir in cream and brown sugar and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low simmer and cook until thickened and a bit sticky, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly. Remove vanilla bean pod.

* Spoon sauce over cake, allowing it to run over sides.

12 servings. Each serving: 368 calories; 393 mg sodium; 111mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 50 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.73 gram fiber.

Nut Slices

Active Work Time: 50 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 1/2 hours plus 2 1/2 hours chilling

You’ll have some dough left over; roll it out and bake to make cookies. Look for orange flower water in the spice aisle or near the cocktail mixers in well-stocked supermarkets.

NUT FILLING

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole unblanched almonds

1/2 cup powdered sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

3 egg whites

* Spread almonds for both filling and dough on baking sheet and toast at 325 degrees until lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Shake pan halfway through to ensure nuts are evenly toasted. Allow nuts to cool. Set aside 1/3 cup nuts for dough.

* Combine 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons almonds with powdered sugar in bowl of food processor fitted with metal blade. Process until it is the consistency of a fine meal. Add cardamom, cinnamon and nutmeg and pulse to combine. Transfer to a bowl. Make a well in center and pour in 2 egg whites. Gradually draw in dry ingredients and whisk until thoroughly incorporated. Mixture should be shiny, smooth and spreadable. If it seems too stiff, add a few drops of the extra egg white. Set aside.

DOUGH:

1/3 cup whole unblanched almonds

3/4 cup powdered sugar

2 cups plus 2 tablespoons unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes

2 egg yolks

2 tablespoons whipping cream, half-and-half or whole milk

1 tablespoon orange flower water

* Combine almonds and half powdered sugar in bowl of food processor and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. Add remaining sugar, flour, baking powder and salt and pulse a few times to combine. Add butter and pulse on and off until it’s the consistency of a fine meal, 30 seconds.

* Whisk together egg yolks, cream and orange flower water in small bowl. Add flour mixture and pulse until the dough barely comes together.

* Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Dip heel of your hand in flour and, working with small sections, smear dough away from you to blend it together. When dough has been all smeared out, use a metal scraper or spatula to scrape and gather it together. Divide dough in half and gently knead each half together. Flatten into 2 (3x5-inch) rectangles, wrap in plastic and chill until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.

ASSEMBLY

1 to 2 tablespoons orange marmalade

* Remove half the dough from refrigerator and turn onto lightly floured surface. Roll dough into 13x5-inch rectangle about 1/4 inch thick and transfer to parchment-lined baking sheet. Use a rule to trim edges so dough is 12x4 inches.

* Using an offset spatula or back of a spoon, spread orange marmalade evenly over dough. Spread Nut Filling over marmalade. Chill bottom while you roll out remaining dough.

* On a lightly floured surface, roll remaining half of dough into 15x6-inch rectangle, 1/8 inch thick. Cut dough into 12 strips, 3/4 inch wide. Remove bottom from refrigerator. Layer 6 strips diagonally across filling, at 1-inch intervals, using shorter pieces toward short ends of rectangle. To form second layer of lattice, place remaining strips over first layer, crisscrossing diagonally.

* Trim strips with knife and cut dough into 8 equal slices. Chill 30 minutes.

* Bake at 350 degrees until nicely browned, 40 minutes.

8 slices. Each slice: 301 calories; 248 mg sodium; 70 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1.54 grams fiber.

Panforte

Active Work Time: 1 1/2 hours * Total Preparation Time: 2 1/2 hours

This chewy, intense confection makes the perfect gift. My favorite combination has a balance of pale, orange and dark-fleshed fruits. White figs and raisins make a good contrast to the darker fruits, such as prunes, raisins and apricots. Always use soft and supple fruit. Some gourmet markets sell roasted, peeled hazelnuts.

1 1/4 cups whole unblanched almonds

1 1/2 cups whole unblanched hazelnuts

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder, plus more for dusting

1 1/4 pounds dried fruits, preferably organic: any combination of black currants, white and black raisins, black mission figs, white figs, sour cherries, plums, prunes, pears, peaches, nectarines, cranberries and apricots; mixture can also include candied ginger

2/3 cup mild-flavored honey, such as clover

1 cup sugar

* Spread nuts on baking sheets in 2 piles and toast at 325 degrees until lightly browned, about 10 to 15 minutes. Shake pans halfway through to ensure that nuts toast evenly. Allow to cool a few minutes. Gather hazelnuts into a kitchen towel and rub together to remove skins.

* Combine nuts with cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, flour and cocoa powder in large bowl.

* Cut fruit into 1/2-inch pieces and toss with nut mixture.

* Stir together honey and sugar in small saucepan. Bring to a boil without stirring. Using a pastry brush dipped in water, brush sides of pan to remove any undissolved sugar granules. Cook until sugar reaches 224 to 240 degrees (soft ball stage) on a candy thermometer. Remove from heat and pour into fruit mixture. Stir to combine as well as possible. Mixture will be very thick and sticky.

* Place ring of 9-inch springform pan (without the bottom) on parchment-lined baking sheet.

* Dip your hands in water and press fruit mixture evenly into springform pan. Bake at 300 degrees until top is slightly puffed, 1 hour. Remove from oven and cool completely in pan. Store at room temperature, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, several weeks.

12 to 20 slices. Each of 20 slices: 257 calories; 2 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 45 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 2.23 grams fiber.