The Meringue Taco

Only in Los Angeles would the delicate Thai sweets khanom beuang get renamed Thai tacos. These khanom (a Thai word for sweets) are indeed shaped like tacos, but their crisp shells are made with rice flour and the fillings are as far removed from taco meats as Thailand is from Mexico. The shells are lined with sweet, snowy white meringue, inside of which is placed either a spoonful of fine golden egg yolk strands that have been cooked in syrup or an orange-coconut mixture seasoned with red peppers and garlic. You can watch these being made by sidewalk vendors in Bangkok or at Kanomthai Ramsong, a shop specializing in Thai sweets and snacks in Hollywood’s Thai Town.

Thai tacos (khanom beuang), $3 for a box of 10, $5 for a box of 17 at Kanomthai Ramsong, 5185 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles. (323) 667-2055.