Good Things Come in a Quiet Package

In a season ripe with end-of-the-year restaurant openings, some of which have been trumpeted for months, a promising new restaurant has quietly slipped into a storefront on West 3rd Street just east of La Cienega Boulevard and the Beverly Center. It’s called G. Garvin’s after chef-owner Gerry B. Garvin, and at the moment it’s open only for dinner--until 11 p.m.

With its honey-colored suede, neatly set tables and candle sconces, the decor is polished and understated, a city sophisticate set down in the funky charm of 3rd Street. G. Garvin’s also feels refreshingly personal.

On a quiet night the chef, in red baseball cap, takes a minute to chat with friends at the minuscule bar, or stop by tables to ask, easily, “How are you doing?”

Garvin was opening chef at Reign in Beverly Hills, where he turned out updated Southern fare, so this California eclectic is something of a departure for the 34-year-old chef. The menu has a similar comfort quotient to that of Jar, another recent L.A. opening. Visions of chops, steaks, mashed potatoes, greens and pretty salads must be streaming the ether 24-7.

A trio of the daintiest tender lamb chops may seem odd as a first course, but as a light second, they play well. Garvin’s “too tender” baby back ribs are just that--and irresistible. Sauteed shrimp with a splash of tequila make another blue-ribbon first course.

Moist, flavorful, oven-roasted chicken scented with rosemary and garlic surrounded with a “medley” of potatoes spells supper loud and clear. The grilled bone-in rib eye steak more than holds its own, and I love the scallions strewn through the mashed potatoes and the crunchy deep gold onion rings on top, too.

For dessert, try sharing your dining companion’s Tahitian vanilla creme brulee. Permission will probably not be granted, unless you agree to fork over some of that warm Granny Smith apple tart with caramel sauce.

G. Garvin’s Restaurant, 8420 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (323) 655-3888. Appetizers, $11 to $17; main courses, $18 to $22. Open Mondays through Saturdays. Corkage $10. Valet parking.