Gallic Fare at a Gallop

Cafe Pascal and Metro Express show the latest mall food concept: quick-serve French food. There seems something peculiarly un-French about the whole idea, but both places are a substantial cut above the usual shopping-center joints.

I first hit Cafe Pascal at noon at the height of the holiday shopping season. There were long lines at some other establishments, but we walked right up to one of Pascal’s full-service tables, which cost a few dollars more but guarantee a place to sit.

It was a sunny day, and the outdoor location was breathtaking. An accordionist charmingly revived 1960s easy-listening hits such as “A Man and a Woman” and “Windmills of Your Mind.” Sitting in a Euro-style chair under a gull-wing umbrella, I could have been in the south of France rather than at South Coast Plaza.

This is another creation of respected Orange County restaurateur Pascal Olhats. But I was a little disappointed to be told, when I tried to order the roast pork plat du jour, that they were out of the specials. Without them, the menu was rather more fast-foody.

My husband ordered the smoked chicken panini, billed as a French baguette grilled with meat and mozzarella inside. The baguette had no detectable crust and the crumbs were flabby; it reminded me of one of those microwaveable pocket sandwiches. The curried carrot salad on the side had much more character.

The salad Nicoise proved a California rendition of the Provencal classic, using grilled tuna steak in place of canned tuna, plain instead of marinated green beans and potatoes, and a generous handful of Kalamata olives on the butter lettuce and radicchio. The tiny pitcher of Dijon vinaigrette turned out to be plenty, and the salad is altogether fresh, light and well-balanced. If I were to make a criticism, it’s that I’d have preferred smaller chunks.

For my daughter, we ordered crepes rolled up with ham and tangy Gruyere cheese. It proved a little too strong for her and she preferred to munch on the nice assortment of diced fruit that came on the plate, but I found it vastly more interesting than the panini.

A few hours and coupon sales later, we arrived at Metro Express in the Fashion Island atrium. Now, food courts may be convenient, but I think of them as noisy dining halls for unfortunate people who can’t settle on one nice restaurant. Nevertheless, we dutifully got in line and ordered our food.

The counter is fashioned after one of the classic Art Nouveau Metro stations of Paris, with a bit of decorative glass peeping over the sign. A refrigerated case provides a preview of what is to come, and I had to say it didn’t look half-bad. It even looked as if some pretty ambitious cooking were going on. One guy out front was making crepes and dressing them with delicious-looking jams.

Although Cafe Pascal uses white china, this place serves on black plastic plates with plastic silverware, and the onion soup comes in a paper bowl. Although obviously homemade, the soup is a little sweet and greasy, and it doesn’t adapt well to mall service. It lacks that wonderful coating of broiled cheese and isn’t hot enough; probably higher heat would incinerate the paper bowl.

The Le Metro house salad, though, is one of those dishes that sings--and not just “Windmills of Your Mind.” I couldn’t stop eating the combination of tender, starchy French green lentils in a tart tarragon vinaigrette with small chunks of chicken breast and sun-dried tomatoes atop some mixed greens. With creamy flavor contrasting with a sour and salty, crisp texture, the dish had the universal appeal of one that everyone would ask for at a potluck.

The good French fries are crisp and shoestring-thin. My daughter pronounced them the best frites she’s ever had. I appreciated the little bit of skin left on for extra crunch.

The charcuterie panini of ham and Gruyere was much better in the bread department than the panini we’d had for lunch. The thick slices of focaccia were grilled around what really was a ham-and-cheese sandwich, complete with the American touch of sliced tomato and lettuce. Not really a panini, perhaps, but much closer to the mark.

The special of the day--actually available here--was baked salmon served on “traditional” ratatouille. It used first-rate restaurant quality fish, nicely prepared with not much seasoning beyond pepper. The ratatouille was spicier than I expected, and I was a little put off by the presence of carrots.

Still, I had to hand it to Metro Express. The salad won my heart and the salmon was much better than anyone has a right to expect in a food court. Cafe Pascal, in its lovely setting, served food that seemed processed and perfunctory; here in the food court, Metro Express’s food managed to be lively and satisfying.

If only Metro could get some lovely outdoor tables and an accordionist who sings in French. In the meantime, take your black plastic plates up the escalator and eat outside.

Both restaurants are inexpensive. Salads are $4 to $7, sandwiches $6 to $8.50, entrees $7 to $12 and desserts $2.50 to $4. Cafe Pascal serves wine and sparkling wine, while Metro Express is seeking a liquor license. There is a nearby wine bar in the food court.

* Cafe Pascal, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa. (714) 751-4911. Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Metro Express, Fashion Island, Newport Beach. (949) 720-8001. Daily, 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Other locations in Tustin and Irvine. (Both restaurants’ hours can vary with mall hours.)