Dining With a 5-Star View

A golden retriever frolics in the surf. Gulls dip and glide overhead as ocean kayakers paddle by. The bright morning sun mirrors off the ocean waves, and the air is so crisp and clear that the coastline is visible for miles in both directions.

Put down the fresh-baked blueberry muffin and hold high that Bellini or mimosa. It’s time to toast this quintessential Southern California moment brought to you courtesy of nature and the Beach House in Laguna Beach.

And the entrees haven’t even arrived yet.

Located south of Laguna Canyon Road, the restaurant is one of the few eateries that thrust out over the sand. Dining here makes you realize how few restaurants can actually take such full advantage of Orange County’s coastal resources.

The food has a hard time rivaling the view from the sun-dappled dining room, but the chefs do their best. Many traditional brunch items are offered, with a refreshing twist.

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Take, for example, the eggs Benedict.

There’s the traditional take featuring Canadian bacon, or smoked salmon--a version that is becoming more common. But if you’re in the mood for something different, try the filet mignon eggs Benedict: poached eggs set upon slices of juicy beef medallions and slathered in buttery, lemony hollandaise sauce.

One warning, though. If you like beef rare, speak up. Two in our party ordered this dish, with one arriving a little more well done than the other, which can be an early-morning disappointment to rare-meat lovers.

Another signature dish is the seafood crepes, bulging with bay shrimp and scallops and crab. A lobster cream sauce finishes off the dish.

Also for the adventurous are eggs Oscar--artichoke hearts, bits of crab and eggs sauteed together and served in puff pastry. If you like to start your day with something savory, it’s worth trying.

There’s also smoked rainbow trout hash, a tasty, scrambled egg dish. More standard fare is also offered, including pancakes and French toast. Omelets can be made to order, with fillings ranging from spinach to feta cheese.

Most dishes are served accompanied by potatoes O’Brien, chunks of potatoes diced with peppers and onions. And the still-warm blueberry muffins arrive at your table shortly after your party is seated.

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The Beach House offers an extensive beverage list, so consider trying the Bellini, which is a peach-nectar version of a mimosa. Drinks are served with tiny, individual bottles of house champagne, which allows you to tailor its strength to your liking.

There are also spicy Bloody Marys, made with Absolut Vodka and served with an impressive-sized prawn and a pepperoncini garnish. But if you’re in the mood for something sweeter, try the Beach House, a signature coffee drink served with Kahlua, Amaretto and creme de banana.

With its beach-oriented decor, indoor and outdoor seating--consider sunglasses or a hat--the Beach House is a perfect place to bring visitors, especially out-of-town guests from colder climes. Afterward, you can stroll the streets of downtown Laguna Beach.

But it’s also a wonderful place for Southern California natives and transplants alike to take a moment to enjoy the food and savor a view that we too often take for granted.

* The Beach House, 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, Laguna Beach. Reservations are suggested. (949) 494-9707. Entrees from $7.95 to $13.95. Drinks, $5.50 and up.