Chinese New Year

Two hours before the Chinese New Year party they were hosting last year, Leeann and Katie Chin stopped at a red light on Laurel Canyon Boulevard and were reviewing the menu for the evening. To begin with, firecracker shrimp, chicken skewers . . . and then bam! A Mercedes rear-ended them.

“That was OK,” remembers Katie. “Then my mom goes to the trunk, and it was sealed shut. We’re like ‘Aghhh!”’

That was where much of the evening’s meal, in its raw form, was sitting.

“The guy who hit us says, ‘Are you absolutely sure you need the contents of the trunk?’ ” Katie’s unequivocal answer: “Ye-e-es!”

It’s a testimony to this mother-daughter team--and to the tow-truck driver who came to the rescue--that the New Year’s party went off without a hitch.

Of course, the two are practiced hosts, especially Leeann, who owns 55 Chinese restaurants in the Midwest, all bearing her name. They’re also authors of a new cookbook, “Everyday Chinese Cooking” (Clarkson Potter, $22).

Katie, a 35-year-old senior vice president at the L.A. Office, a Los Angeles entertainment marketing agency, grew up working in the restaurants. “I was really good at volume,” she says. “I could make 10,000 shrimp toasts easily. As I got older though, the thought of throwing a dinner party became intimidating. I would do it occasionally, but it was a big project. Plus, when your mom is Leeann Chin, you have big shoes to fill.”

Over the past year or so, though, Katie has had a crash course in the art of the dinner party. Her friends, mostly 30-something industry execs, have been the beneficiaries.

It all started during one of Leeann’s regular visits. (The 67-year-old restaurateur, who grew up in Guangzhou, China, lives in Minneapolis.) Opening the freezer in her daughter’s Hollywood apartment one evening, she was horrified to find just two items: ice cream and ice. She resolved to teach her daughter how to cook the Chinese dishes she grew up with.

Soon, Leeann was flying out twice, sometimes three times a month, to join her daughter in the kitchen. They would prepare multicourse meals, often with Katie’s friends pitching in.

“We started calling it Test Kitchen Sunday,” says Kristin Nicholas, one of the 20 or so New Year’s party guests. “Whoever wanted to would come over.”

It was during these Sundays that the idea for a cookbook was born. Leeann was already at work on her third cookbook (she did two others on Chinese cooking for Betty Crocker). “It was going to be a little fancier cooking,” she says. “But after being with Katie and her friends, who would say, ‘Oh, we can do this every day, we can do this all the time,’ we changed to everyday cooking.”

The New Year’s party was, in part, a celebration of Leeann and Katie’s collaboration, which Katie calls extremely harmonious.

“She was the mastermind behind the recipes,” Katie says of her mother. “She would hand me a recipe and say, ‘Go do this. Don’t ask me questions.’ I was sort of like the guinea pig.”

Katie’s friends watched with wonder as she was transformed into a Martha Stewart. But this new Katie, armed with a chef’s knife instead of a cell phone, didn’t exactly jibe with her friends’ image of a high-powered entertainment executive. On top of that, she had accepted the role of sous chef to Leeann. It was eye-opening to see her take direction and be gracious, says one co-worker: “It’s not her M.O. in business.”

Many of Katie’s friends had another reaction. As Nicholas puts it, “If Katie can do it, anyone can learn to do it.”

On the night of the New Year’s party, however, it was mom, with a couple of assistants, who did most of the work. Katie welcomed guests, passed hors d’oeuvres and wished everyone “Gung hay fat choy”--”Happy New Year.” (To which one guest replied, “What did you say about bok choy?”)

Occasionally, Katie joined her mom at the stove. The two had already done a significant amount of prep work earlier in the day--absolutely necessary for the 13 dishes on the menu. Chicken was threaded on skewers and ready for a hot oil bath, pot stickers were already golden and needed only to be steamed, lotus root was marinating for “jewel of happiness,” and firecracker shrimp had been preassembled. (And these were just the appetizers.)

Leeann called firecracker shrimp a “new tradition.” With their carrot-strip wicks and spring roll wraps, the shrimp resemble the firecrackers so popular during the New Year’s celebration.

Chicken is far more traditional. “Every celebration meal has to have chicken,” Leeann explains, because it signifies good luck. But Leeann is generally disappointed with the flavor of chickens bred today.

So for the dinner banquet she made beautiful, glazed Cornish game hens, subtly perfumed with star anise and ginger. There was honey-barbecued pork too, because, Leeann says, pork means you will have a rich, wealthy year.

Much of the banquet’s meaning was lost on the guests, who were also unaware of the Chinese custom of keeping conversation upbeat on the New Year. “You don’t say bad things or bad words,” said Leeann. “You don’t mention deaths or injury.” Yet out on the patio, guests were bemoaning their rigorous work schedules.

And they were fretting about the evening’s dietary damage. “Any time there’s rolling oil, it’s a little bit terrifying for an L.A. person,” said one guest.

At least the group had eaten some lotus root, a symbol of happiness. Now they were digging into whole crispy fish with ginger-green onion sauce, a symbol, said Leeann, of a whole life: “A whole fish means you always have extra--extra money, extra everything.”

The feast also included shrimp blanketed in mayonnaise, crisp-skinned roast duck, fried rice dotted with peas and pork, vibrant stir-fried vegetables, and golden tofu stuffed with shrimp. This last dish, called “pile of gold” in China for its resemblance to gold bars, is another New Year’s staple, a promise of wealth in the coming year.

Black moss, a kind of seaweed, is also traditional. “But the taste is really hard for Americans,” says Leeann. “It’s really fishy. And the texture is just like hair.”

As guests savored a dessert of cool creamy mango pudding with miniature coconut walnut cookies, Katie appeared with a huge red platter. In the center were chocolates and marzipan fruit. Along the rim were small red envelopes printed with an ornate gold design. This was lucky money. “I have to give them to anyone younger than me,” said Leeann. And so, each of the guests received an envelope containing a dollar bill.

One guest planned to buy a lottery ticket with his. Another planned to save up another $3 and buy a latte at Starbucks.

Usually, Katie says, the flow of money went the opposite direction--from the guests to Leeann--in the heated poker games that typically ended New Year’s parties.

“I told all my friends to expect to have their shorts eaten by my mother,” said Katie.

But with a writer and photographer present, Leeann was playing innocent. “Poker?” she asked with a surprised look. “That’s illegal!”

Firecracker Shrimp

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

This festive appetizer, which is great for a Chinese New Year or Fourth of July gathering, looks like a firecracker. In China, firecrackers light up the sky on New Year’s Day. Prepare this recipe a day ahead and save the frying step till just after your guests arrive. Leeann likes the Vietnamese Sambal Oelek brand of hot pepper sauce, but any red paste hot sauce will work. Look for it in the Asian aisle of well-stocked supermarkets and at Asian markets.

DIPPING SPICE

1/4 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons hot pepper sauce

* Mix the mayonnaise and hot pepper sauce in a small bowl. Set aside.

SHRIMP

12 large shrimp, in the shell

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt, divided

4 spring roll wrappers

2 large carrots

1 egg, beaten

3 cups oil, for frying

* Remove the shells from the shrimp, leaving the tails intact. Make a deep cut lengthwise down the back of each shrimp; wash out the sand vein. Add the salt to a bowl of warm water and stir to dissolve. Place the shrimp in the water and swirl. Let the shrimp stand 5 minutes, then rinse in cold water, drain and pat dry on paper towels. Sprinkle the shrimp with 1/4 teaspoon garlic salt.

* Cut each spring roll wrapper into thirds, making 3 long narrow strips.

* Peel the carrots and cut them into thin matchsticks 3 inches long. You’ll need 24. Place the carrot strips in a small bowl, sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon garlic salt, and set aside.

* Brush some egg on the top of each shrimp. Place 2 carrot strips in the slit of each shrimp. Brush a spring roll wrapper strip with egg, then set a shrimp 1 inch from the end. Roll the shrimp up tightly in the spring roll strip, with the egg holding it together. The tail of the shrimp should be protruding from one end and the carrots from the other--to resemble a firecracker. Continue the process until all the wrappers are rolled with the shrimp and carrots.

* In a wok or deep frying pan, heat the oil to 325 to 350 degrees. Fry the shrimp rolls until golden brown, about 2 minutes, turning 2 to 3 times. Drain them on paper towels. Serve with the dipping sauce.

12 pieces. Each piece, with sauce: 70 calories; 264 mg sodium; 32 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.58 gram fiber.

Glazed Cornish Hens

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

You can store the soy sauce mixture in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to four weeks and use it again. Use leftovers for a quick salad or flavorful sandwich.

4 (1 1/2- to 2-pound) Cornish game hens

1 1/2 cups soy sauce

2 cups water

1/2 cup dry white wine

3/4 cup sugar

4 star anise

1 (1-inch) piece ginger root, sliced

* Remove the excess fat from the game hens. Wash the hens in cold running water; drain.

* Bring the soy sauce, water, wine, sugar, star anise and ginger to boil in a 3-quart saucepan. The saucepan should be large enough to hold 2 hens, side by side, on the bottom.

* Add the hens and return the sauce to boiling. Turn the hens over, being careful not to break the skin (it looks best unbroken). Return to boiling, reduce the heat to medium and simmer 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer 10 to 15 minutes. Do not allow the mixture to boil too hard or the skin on the hens will break. Turn the hens over and cook another 10 to 15 minutes; check to see if they’re done by removing one from the pan and wiggling the leg. If it wiggles easily, they’re done. Remove the hens carefully; keep warm.

* Repeat with the remaining hens. Cut each hen into halves and serve warm.

Note: Leeann prepared the hens earlier in the day and then deep-fried them in oil just prior to dinner to heat through. This has the added benefit of making the skin shiny and crisp.

4 servings. Each serving: 618 calories; 581 mg sodium; 297 mg cholesterol; 41 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 51 grams protein; 0.09 gram fiber.

Honey Barbecued Pork

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes plus 2 hours marinating

This is a simple recipe, although you must allow at least 2 hours for marinating. Marinate the pork in the refrigerator the night before, then just pop it in the oven for a quick dinner. Create a Chinatown rice bowl treat by slicing the pork and serving it over piping hot rice, drizzled with soy sauce.

3 pounds boneless pork butt or shoulder

1/4 cup ketchup

2 teaspoons salt

4 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon minced garlic

4 teaspoons brandy

1 teaspoon five-spice powder

1/2 cup honey

* Trim all the fat off the pork and cut the pork into 1-inch-thick slices.

* Combine the ketchup, salt, sugar, garlic, brandy, five-spice powder and honey in a small bowl. Rub this mixture on the pork pieces, covering all sides. Marinate the pork in the refrigerator, covered, for 2 hours or longer.

* Heat the oven to 425 degrees.

* Place the pork on a rack in a roasting pan and cook for 20 minutes. Turn the pork, baste it with the pan juices, and cook for an additional 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees and cook until the pork reaches an internal temperature of 170 degrees, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven.

* Boil the sauce for a couple of minutes, then brush it over the pork before serving.

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings: 213 calories; 444 mg sodium; 83 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 25 grams protein; 0.19 gram fiber.

“Pile of Gold” Tofu Stuffed With Shrimp

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

Use a deep enough pan or wok to deep-fry. Tofu contains a lot of water, and spattering can occur. We recommend frying 1 to 2 pieces at a time to maintain high heat. This dish is referred to as “Pile of Gold” and is often served for Chinese New Year banquets.

2 (14-ounce) cartons firm tofu, drained

2 cups warm water

2 1/4 teaspoons salt, divided

1/4 pound large shrimp, shelled and deveined

1 small egg white

Dash white pepper

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon cornstarch

3 cups oil

Gravy

2 tablespoons thinly sliced green onion

* Cut each block of tofu into 8 (1 1/2x3/4-inch) squares. Scoop tofu from the center of each square so there’s a hole in the middle, and reserve the scooped-out tofu. Set the tofu squares upside-down on a cloth to drain the excess water.

* Place the water in a bowl and add 2 teaspoons of the salt; stir to dissolve. Place the shrimp in the salt water and swirl. Leave the shrimp in the salt water for 5 minutes, then rinse with cold water and drain. Pat dry on paper towels to remove the excess water. Using a sharp knife or food processor, mash the shrimp to a paste. Blend with the egg white, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, pepper, sesame oil and cornstarch.

* With a fork, mash half of the scooped-out tofu and add to the shrimp mixture. Put a little less than a teaspoon of the mixture in each square of tofu. Repeat until all the pieces are filled.

* Heat the oil in a deep-sided pan (so the oil doesn’t boil over from the excess moisture in the tofu) to 350 degrees. Add 1 piece of tofu at a time to prevent them from sticking together. Do not overcrowd the pan. Deep-fry 1 to 2 pieces at a time. Fry until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels when done. Pour the Gravy over the tofu and garnish with the green onion.

GRAVY

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon cold water

1 cup chicken broth

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

* Mix the cornstarch with the water in a small bowl.

* Bring the chicken broth and oyster sauce to a boil in a small saucepan and add the cornstarch mixture. Stir until thickened, about 1 minute, then remove from the heat.

16 pieces. Each piece: 69 calories; 153 mg sodium; 8 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.20 gram fiber.

Flaky Walnut Coconut Dumplings

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

This light and delicious dessert is wonderful as is, but for those who do not like coconut, you may substitute peanuts. Just chop the peanuts very finely.

1/4 cup sweetened, shredded coconut

1/4 cup chopped walnuts

1/4 cup sugar, divided

1 (17.3-ounce) package frozen puff pastry sheets, thawed at room temperature 30 minutes

1 egg, beaten

* Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

* Mix the coconut, walnuts and 2 tablespoons of sugar in a small bowl and set aside.

* Unfold the pastry sheets on a lightly floured surface. Roll each into a 12-inch square. Using a drinking glass or 3-inch round cookie cutter, cut out circles. Remove the shapes, roll out the remaining dough and continue making circles. Each sheet should yield 20 circles.

* Place a circle in the palm of your hand and place 1 teaspoon of the coconut mixture in the center. Fold over the circle to form a half circle. Pinch the dough together firmly to seal the edges. Lay the dumplings on a nonstick baking sheet evenly apart and brush them with the egg.

* Bake the dumplings until golden brown, 13 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle both sides of the dumplings with the remaining sugar immediately after removing from the oven.

40 dumplings. Each dumpling: 53 calories; 62 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.06 gram fiber.

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Tray from Crate & Barrel stores.