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New Series Savors L.A.’s Ethnic Flavor

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Times Restaurant Critic

Awful as it was, the 1994 Northridge earthquake brought a serendipitous benefit: Angelenos were forced off the freeways and had to discover new routes through neighborhoods many would never have had any reason to visit otherwise. In doing so, many of us discovered the fascinating texture of L.A.’s urban fabric.

It’s there in the signs, in the languages, in the small shops and restaurants in neighborhoods all over the city. Few other cities in the world can claim such a heady brew of ethnicities and traditions. Los Angeles is the melting pot. We’re rich in everything from Issan-style Thai restaurants and Lebanese mezze cafes to Salvadoran bakeries, Indian sweet shops and Korean tofu spots. If you like to eat, L.A. is a glorious place.

Remember, though, what seems exotic to one person is as familiar as hot dogs to another. In L.A., we’re lucky enough to have a whole world of tastes out there waiting to be explored. In this new year and this new century, why not get out your map and leave the ordinary behind to try something new, somewhere new?

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In an occasional series of articles on distinct Southern California neighborhoods that begins today with Linda Burum’s report on Koreatown restaurants, we’ll celebrate eating in L.A. in all its obstinate and spirited diversity.

In future articles in this series we’re calling Authentic Ethnic, we’ll take you to the best places to eat Armenian food in Burbank and Glendale, Vietnamese in Little Saigon, Cantonese seafood and dim sum in Monterey Park and on and on.

Let’s eat.

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