Fine Art and Fun Shopping

The invitation is nestled between tourist brochures for Disneyland and Catalina Island: Forest Lawn-Cypress. So much to see for free!

It’s really an invitation to escape Southern California--and maybe even the 21st century--for a few hours. The sprawling 43-year-old cemetery (4471 Lincoln Ave., [800] 204-3131; open 9 a.m.-5 p.m.) has dozens of beautiful marble statues, including some original pieces, and spectacular examples of mosaic artwork.

The 100-acre cemetery boasts a precise, 16-foot, 9-inch bronze replica of Michelangelo’s “David” and a dutiful re-creation of St. John’s Church in Richmond, Va., where Patrick Henry gave his fiery “give me liberty or give me death” speech in 1775.

The manicured, tree-lined grounds are dotted with marble sculptures worthy of a 16th-century Roman Catholic church.

But the most spectacular feature of the cemetery is the mosaic reproduction of artist John La Farge’s famous mural “The Ascension.” The painting is La Farge’s impression of the moment Jesus returned from heaven and appeared to his Apostles. The original mural, finished in 1888, can be seen at the Church of the Ascension in New York City.

The mosaic holds its own as a powerful work of art. A painstaking re-creation, it contains more than 1 million pieces of Venetian stained-glass tile in more than 3,000 hues. Measuring 28 feet tall and 30 feet wide, it dominates the front of the cemetery’s main mausoleum. Afternoon sunlight makes the colors sparkle.

The mosaic theme continues throughout the mausoleum, including a smaller reproduction of 19th-century artist Adolphe-William Bouguereau’s “The Nativity.” Another mosaic impression of Jesus and Mary adorns the crypt of pop singer Karen Carpenter, who died in 1983 and is interred in the west wing of the mausoleum.

It’s possible to spend several hours pondering the intricate mosaics and reading epitaphs ranging from Carpenter’s “A star on Earth--A star in Heaven” to the touching endearments of everyday people such as Sid and Louise’s “Sweethearts Always.”

“This is a well-kept secret,” said Mary Meglemere, a guide with VIP Tours who sometimes brings tourists to the cemetery to snap photos of Carpenter’s grave. “You can come here and meditate. It really is a special place.”

Best for Breakfast

Finding a restaurant nearby can be a challenge. But there’s a local secret only half a mile down the street--Howard’s Coffee Shop and Family Restaurant (4780 Lincoln Ave., [714] 827-8422, open 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.).

It’s the kind of timeless diner where regulars gather at the lunch counter to discuss the best slot machines this side of Vegas and a waitress who will still lend you a quarter for a newspaper. The coffee is strong and hot, and your cup is never empty.

Howard’s menu belongs to a time when cholesterol and red meat were considered staples--what owner Billy Ly calls “good old-fashioned American food.” The diner serves lunch and dinner, but earned its loyal following in the morning.

“We’re best for breakfast,” Ly said. “I like the chicken-fried steak.”

If a hearty helping of breaded ground steak, two eggs, hash browns and toast ($4.95) will stop you in your tracks, try Howard’s version of a light breakfast--two eggs and two pancakes ($1.99). Biscuits and gravy can be substituted for toast on any entree for only 30 cents. It’s a no-miss menu--not gourmet, but good.

Each Booth is Different

Wrap up your Cypress adventure with a leisurely exploration of the vast collection of treasures and bric-a-brac at Z Antique & Collectible Mall (4480 Lincoln Ave., [714] 952-8857; open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.). Located in the strip mall across from Forest Lawn-Cypress, the mall contains 68 booths with items ranging from a weathered Pat Boone “White Christmas” record ($3) to an antique English walnut armoire ($415).

“You name it, it comes in and out of here,” owner Zak Komor said. “Each dealer is an individual, which is nice, because each booth is a little different.”

There are antique mall staples such as old Life magazines and Elvis knickknacks (ranging from a few bucks to $50) and more unique items, including a pair of intriguing high school desks with sculpted iron legs ($385 each). One desk still harbors the daydreams of Gary, who carved out his eternal love for Phyllis on the desktop.

The store works to maintain a swap-meet feel--so don’t forget to haggle. The staff is authorized to accept some offers and will call the dealer with anything they can’t authorize.

“Some dealers are fixed, but, hey, nothing’s set in stone,” Komor said. “It never hurts to ask.”

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Getting there: From the San Gabriel River Freeway exit on Lincoln Avenue (Carson Street in Long Beach) and head east. The cemetery is about 2.3 miles on the left.