Breakfast at the Standard--It’s Like a Vacation

I’ve been back from vacation long enough to feel I never had one. I know it’s not reasonable, but as friends set off blithely on their summer trips, I can’t help feeling a little jealous.

Last weekend, though, I found a quick fix: breakfast outside at the Standard. This hotel with the upside-down sign and a lounge with shag carpeting and sofas that look like squat caterpillars has a quirky roof-terrace just beyond the reception desk. Carpeted in electric blue, it looks onto two perfectly groomed palm trees and a wide-open view of Los Angeles.

At 9 a.m., which is when the Standard opens for breakfast outside, the sun spotlights the dappled turquoise of the quintessential California pool. French tourists loll on the white chaise lounges, smoking. A couple of trendy dudes set their graffitied Louis Vuittons down to make a cell phone call. And an actual brunet sprawls in the silver beanbag chair on her balcony, reading what looks very much like a script.

We spread out the paper and take in the sunshine while the waiter sets the tables. His wraparound shades and long baggy shorts brand the Standard as L.A. resort groovy. Amiable and laid-back, he’s also a good waiter. Pouring coffee into glass cups, he hands us the menus. What to order? Buttermilk pancakes and real maple syrup? Frosted pop tarts du jour ?

“Eggsadilla?” ventures my companion.

Well, yes, maybe. I’m ordering three eggs any style with home fries and toast and a side of applewood-smoked bacon.

Bingo. Eggsadilla turns out to be something like a quesadilla of griddled small flour tortillas filled with eggs scrambled with scallions, a layer of melted cheese and a dollop of chunky guacamole. Sour cream and a fresh, bright pico di gallo are served on the side. The eggs, ordered softly scrambled, are borderline stiff, but never mind, the whole thing works. Move over, Egg McMuffin!

Eggs sunny side up are perfectly fine, the home fries are golden and not at all greasy.

The bacon is a dream--thick, lean and very crisp. At $3 for three slices, it seems like a bargain. I wish that I had ordered three more.

I’m on vacation, after all.

* The Standard, 8300 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; (323) 650-9090. Breakfast daily 5 a.m. to noon (until 3 p.m. on weekends); served outside starting at 9 a.m. Breakfast items $4 to $12. Valet parking.