Trawling for Trends in Downtown L.A.

With whirring garment racks, hairless mannequins modeling a rainbow of lingerie and miniskirts and a cacophony of voices hawking everything from lucky bamboo to live geckos, the Fashion District in downtown Los Angeles is the ultimate urban experience. The gritty neighborhood, which many know as the garment district, is no longer simply a wholesale and manufacturing center. It has become a destination not just for bargain basics, but for trendy clothing and accessories.

On certain days wholesale and designer showrooms, like those at CaliforniaMart and New Mart, sell samples and overstock to the public. (There’s a CalMart sale this Saturday). A number of stores have opened recently offering fashionable merchandise at prices 20% to 50% below those found on similar items at the mall. A few examples: Studded “J.Lo” bandannas for $1, camouflage cuff bracelets for $4, cowgirl rhinestone belt buckles for $16 and knockoff messenger bags for $17.

“Not only have we seen more wholesalers selling to the public, but we are seeing stores opening up that are catering solely to retail customers,” said Kent Smith, executive director of the Fashion District Business Improvement District. The organization of property owners, founded in 1995, renamed the area and has helped polish its image.

Play, a showcase for up-and-coming local designers, opened inside an art gallery on Spring Street just a few weeks ago. Owner Michele Montano, 30, a designer who graduated from L.A.’s Trade Tech College in 1992, said she chose her location because of downtown’s emerging art scene and development surge. “Until now there has not been a place down here to nurture young designers.”

Garment manufacturers first made their way to L.A. from New York in the 1920s, attracted by non-union labor. Women’s swimwear companies Cole of California and Catalina were among the first labels to gain national attention in the 1930s, but it wasn’t until after World War II that the district came into its own as a sportswear center. Companies such as Guess, Cherokee Group and Carole Little have made the district the hub of L.A. County’s $21-billion apparel industry. Although it may not have the respect or dollar value of New York’s Seventh Avenue, the Fashion District is the nation’s largest apparel-related employer, providing nearly 50,000 jobs.

A mainstay of the district is the 1,200-showroom center CalMart. Despite changing hands and enduring growing pains since opening in the 1960s, it still attracts buyers from all over the country. As the district’s showcase, CalMart’s lobby shops are some of the best.

On a recent morning, Kathleen Gage, 24, was in the CalMart lobby at Details Accessories on a mission to buy a silver clutch purse and jewelry to match a wedding outfit. The fashion designer from Los Alamitos said she hits the shops in the district at least once a week for “fashion forward” finds. “You see it here before it’s even on the floor at the mall.”

Others prefer the rough-and-tumble of Santee Alley, an outdoor market where the sounds of rap, Latin and techno music mingle with the smells of grilling hot dogs wrapped in bacon. Shoppers clog the three-block bazaar, darting back and forth across the alley to check out the wares, or to buy a snack. An alley favorite is fresh mango with a squeeze of lime, purchased from one of many women pushing fruit-filled laundry carts.

“You can get sports stuff here at a pretty good price,” said Joe Cozza, 35, folding his wallet after snapping up a pair of track shorts for $10. “You can get perfumes that are a little bit cheaper. You can get jeans half off. But you got to know where to go. You get a big variety in quality here,” said the electrical engineer from Redondo Beach.

Quality isn’t always the best, but at $20 for of-the-moment, wedge-heeled sandals, you get what you pay for. Another downside of buying clothes in the alley is that sizes can be a bit skewed. (The alley’s version of a size large looks roughly equal to the mall’s version of a size small.) Most Santee merchants don’t have dressing rooms and won’t even let shoppers try things on over their clothes.

Shop owners prefer to deal in cash, though some will accept credit cards. Most stores do not allow returns or exchanges, but they do allow bargaining. So grab a sun hat, prepare for some serious walking and don’t forget to ask: Is that your final price?

Route: Start anywhere, but stores are a bit scattered. The CalMart at 9th and Main streets provides a reference point and a meeting place. From there, continue to other adjacent stores, the New Mart and Santee Alley. Maps of the district are available online at https://www.fashiondistrict.org, and there’s a free trolley tour on the last Saturday of every month. (Call [213] 488-1153.)

A SAMPLING OF STORES: Play, inside Gallery 835, 835 Spring St., (213) 439-9922. Fab finds from up-and-coming designers including a red drawstring shoulder dress from Michele Montano ($220), freshwater pearl cocktail rings by Antonella (about $200), button-down shirts with ripped, cap sleeves by Ynubb (about $68), sweater skirts by Rocket Baby ($78) and striped jersey tops, personalized with tulle, ribbons, metallic lightning bolts and other crafty details by Brian Lichtenberg (about $88).

SoHo West, 100 W. 9th St., (213) 688-9003. Italian clothing for men and women discounted up to 75%. Most of the looks are last season, but there are some deals: a Gucci logo tote for $450, kitten-heeled Prada sandals for $150, a men’s lemon print D&G; shirt for $125 and luxe cashmere Fendi men’s overcoats starting at $700.

Planet Lulu, go to https://www.planetlulu.com for location and dates of these “private sales” (there is one scheduled this Saturday). A clearinghouse for heavily discounted overstock and slightly damaged goods from local designers, some of whom do not want their names publicized. We can tell you that on a recent trip, Paige Roberts’ elegant charm bracelets were down to $35. Pierre Urbach’s colorful purses accented with tropical flowers and Sarah Shaw’s cute kimono print, pinked-edge totes were both selling for about $40 to $50. Bottom line: Show up and you won’t be disappointed.

CaliforniaMart, 110 E. 9th St., entrance on Olympic Blvd., (310) 837-6788. Individual showrooms routinely have sample sales the last Friday of the month. Separately, vendors sell samples and overstock at monthly warehouse-style Saturday sales. This Saturday, summer clothes for men, women and children from lines such as Bisou Bisou, Morgan and Rampage, with prices discounted up to 80% below retail. 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Admission $1. Future dates: Aug. 25 and Sept. 22.

IN THE LOBBY OF CALMART: Augment Accessories, (213) 489-7949. A handbag heaven stocking canvas bucket bags with rubber pebbles on the base (a la Tod’s) and black leather bags with clip-closure front pockets that look like they could be straight out of Marc Jacobs’ spring line, both $60. Also, rainbow-hued beaded purses and suitcase bags emblazoned with funny phrases such as “Ride ‘Em Cowboy,” both $35.

International Fashion Publications, (213) 622-5663. Fashion magazines from all over the world, trade publications, as well as general interest fashion books such as Simon Doonan’s “Confessions of A Window Dresser” and Isaac Mizrahi’s “The Adventures of Sandee the Supermodel.” Also: videotapes of designer runway shows for $50.

Shooz, (213) 489-3577. A well-edited selection of women’s stilettos, sandals, slides and more from Paloma, Charles David, Charles Jourdan and others. Prices start at about $100.

Details Watches, (213) 622-0376. Timepieces in every size, shape and color, including pastel plastic, Technomarine-style diving watches with rhinestone faces ($15), watches with beaded cuff bracelets ($15) and clocks in the shape of Volkswagen Bugs and high-heeled shoes ($16 to $36).

Foot at the Mart, (213) 623-6579. High fashion footwear for men from Hush Puppies, Cole Haan, Kenneth Cole, Bally, Clarks, Camper and others. Most shoes discounted about $20 off department store prices. Clearance shoes start at $65, and for those who fit a sample size 8 or 81/2, Bruno Magli shoes are just $80.

Details Accessories, (213) 489-2480. Grab a basket at the door and dig into this treasure trove of trendy accessories including camouflage purses ($20), “ammo” bullet belts ($18), stretchy rainbow belts with plastic fruit buckles no doubt inspired by Jacobs’ Marc line ($4.50), brooches shaped like lips ($10), hair bands with rhinestone ornaments ($3) and more.

New Mart, 127 E. 9th St., (213) 627-0671. Designer showrooms housed in this building routinely have sample sales on the last Friday of the month. Stop in and check signs for info.

Fashion World , outside the Mart at 932 S. Los Angeles St., (213) 489-5861. Back outside the Mart, this store sells argyle-print clutches, pale pink totes with bow accents on the handles, Burberry-like plaid carryalls and more, all for about $20 a bag.

Tiara Fashion, 926-2 S. Los Angeles St., (213) 623-9962. Boxy, Kate Spade look-alike totes for $22 in graffiti, newsprint and other funky patterns, lip-shaped rhinestone belt buckles for $16, necklaces with cherry charms for $4 and other accessories.

Guess Factory Store, Cooper Building, 860 S. Los Angeles St., (213) 629-4438. Jean jackets for men, women and children for $26 each, patterned button-down shirts for $9.99, T-shirts, purses and some shoes. This is a factory outlet, so some items may be seconds. Watch for flaws.

Most Wanted, 822 S. Los Angeles St., (213) 627-2626. Discounted men’s separates from hip-hop labels Pelle Pelle, Sean John, Phat Farm and more. FUBU’s Fat Albert shirts are big sellers at $50 and up, but don’t pay too much attention to price tags; the discount seems to be up to the whim of whoever is working the floor.

Santee Alley, enter on the south side of Olympic Blvd., just east of Santee Street. A little bit of everything. For men: Khakis, two pairs for $20, Hawaiian shirts and athletic shorts for $10 each, and suits ranging from $49 to $99. For kids, Powerpuff Girls jean jackets cost $26 and two-piece Lakers and Hello Kitty shorts outfits are $6.99 to $9.99. For women: Tank tops and T-shirts with images of cherries, kiwis or lemons on the chest cost $10 and less. (Stella McCartney’s Chloe versions sell for much more in department stores.) There are several shoe stands with wild offerings such as red platform sandals with hot pepper-print fabric on the footbeds, pink glitter slides and studded denim wedges for no more than $20 a pair. A few shops offer name brands such as XOXO and Karl Kani for 50% off, and of course, knockoffs abound, especially of designer handbags.

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The Scoop Where: Fashion District in downtown Los Angeles. The area is bordered by 8th Street to the north and 12th Street to the south, Main Street to the west and Maple Avenue to the east.

Hours: Most stores are open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. seven days a week. Those inside the CaliforniaMart are closed weekends, except during Saturday Sale days. (See story.)

ATMs: Bank of America and CalFed inside CalMart at 110 E. 9th St.; Union Bank, 900 S. Main St.

Where to grab a bite: See E3

Parking: There is little free parking. Take change for parking meters or try one of the many lots. The closer the parking lot is to CalMart and Santee Alley, the more expensive it tends to be.