A Casual Quality

Mahe, on Pacific Coast Highway in Seal Beach, falls into the general category of a surf ‘n’ turf joint, but that label doesn’t really do it justice. It’s on the site of the grand old Glide’er Inn, once a stopover for amateur aviators, and the new owners have retained the super-relaxed atmosphere, along with the Volkswagen-sized model plane that has long crowned the building.

Maybe it’s a surf joint, though. You certainly wouldn’t be turned away for showing up in jeans and a T-shirt, and a swimsuit might not even be pushing it. The decor is spartan and beachy, with slate floors, copper-painted ventilation ducts and rust-colored walls hung with a few surfboards. Behind the dining room is the bar, a favorite watering hole for locals who chat up a storm while keeping one eye on ESPN. There’s live music Fridays and Saturdays.

The first time I came, I halfway expected to be served by a gang of indifferent surfer airheads (“Everything cool, dudes?”), but that turned out to be far from the case. The waiters are attentive and efficient, and they exude a genial but unobtrusive familiarity. They’re also impressively knowledgeable--and appropriately opinionated--about Mahe’s menu.

Still, I wondered, could the kitchen in a restaurant so devotedly laid-back really deliver the goods? Half starved and waiting for friends delayed by car trouble, I sat at the bar and ordered a bowl of New England clam chowder, and I had my answer.

I’d put that chowder up against any I’ve had. The finely minced clams are unusually tender, and the broth has the right consistency: soupy, not like the grotesquely over-thickened sort of thing that passes for chowder at many restaurants. The flavor was nicely rounded out, with just the right amount of bacon. On another visit, I sampled the Manhattan-style chowder, which is also quite good but not in the same category as the New England.

In the dining room, I’ve found the quality of the food to be pretty consistent. Although the focus is steak and seafood (both, for the most part, expertly grilled), Mahe also has a first-rate sushi chef, formerly of the nearby Tsunami restaurant. The main problem here is the occasional distracting sauce.

Among the appetizers, the steamed Little Neck clams (a generous serving) come in a bucket accompanied by small plates and shellfish forks--I’d prefer them served with bowls and a ladle to enjoy the savory broth, flavored with garlic, white wine and hot peppers. I ended up asking for a teacup so I could savor this broth.

The sushi, fresh and excellent quality, isn’t limited to the traditional items. Take Cody’s nachos: sauteed scallops and shrimp dressed in a spicy sauce reminiscent of a Chinese kung pao, served with wonton chips--a nice twist.

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The jewel among the dozen or so versions of California roll is the Mahe, a mosaic of several seafoods along with avocado; the roll is lightly fried and has a nice crunch. It’s also a pleasure to look at.

The salads, on the other hand, are fairly basic. Small heirloom tomatoes add to their appeal, but the greens are less than farm-fresh and the dressings pedestrian.

The entrees are best when they’re at their simplest. The salmon steak, for example, is beautifully charcoal broiled, moist on the inside--but has an alluring gossamer crust that gives it a delicately crunchy texture. It’s pleasantly topped with a bit of cilantro butter. The charbroiled mahi mahi, similarly well-presented, comes with side of pleasant though unremarkable pineapple salsa.

And the seared ahi, though not unusually prepared, has a nice coating of coarse pepper, and I’d certainly order it again. Across the board, the quality of the seafood is excellent; the only dud I’ve encountered was the halibut I tried on my first visit, which was dry and insipid.

If you’re ordering meat for your main course, ask that the sauce be served on the side; the sauces tend either to muddle or overwhelm the meat. A frequent special, for example, is filet mignon slathered with a blue cheese dressing. It’s a nice piece of meat, but the sauce overpowers it.

I’m not sure whether there was a glitch in the kitchen or a miscommunication regarding the evening’s specials, but the “roasted garlic New York steak” a friend ordered came with a rudimentary wine reduction instead of garlic. The cranberry glaze on the thick-cut pork chop is a better pairing, although the chop itself can be dry and a little tough.

Entrees come with sides of satisfyingly sweet garlic mashed red potatoes and a melange of steamed vegetables that hit the al dente target perfectly. The presentation is folksy, but it gets the job done. Mahe may have a few refinements to make, but the prices aren’t bad and overall the food gets high marks.

Mahe is moderate to expensive. Appetizers are $7.95 to $10.95. Most entrees are $14.95 to $21.95.

* Mahe, 1400 Pacific Coast Highway, Seal Beach. (562) 431-3022. Open 5 to 10 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday; lounge open until 1 p.m.