FETES, SOUP <i> and</i> CHARITY

If you were dining at the home of an aspiring Los Angeles hostess in 1930, you might have been served smoked salmon appetizers (strips of salmon rolled “around a midget sweet pickle in the form of a calla lily”), followed by tomato bouillon, lobster timbales, baked veal and a frozen chestnut mousse.

Flash-forward 70 years and our hostess’ great-granddaughter might offer a fancy spread of curried walnut chicken triangles, duck with dried cherry port sauce, roasted garlic thyme custards, spinach with pancetta and pine nuts, and a gingerbread cake with caramelized pears.

Trace the source of all of the party dishes on California tables, and it’s likely that many originated in a Junior League cookbook. These popular collections of home-tested recipes record the development of a certain kind of cutting-edge California cuisine from the ‘30s to the present day. That first menu comes from “The Junior League Recipe Book” published in Los Angeles in 1930, the latter from “Dinner With Good Friends” (very good friends, one might say) in “California Fresh Harvest” by the Junior League of Oakland-East Bay published in June.

Celebrating its centennial this year, the Junior League was founded in 1901 in New York City and its chapters have spread to Great Britain, Canada and Mexico. Until recently, membership was limited to women ages 20 to 40, who devoted themselves to charitable work. Today, the age restrictions have largely vanished, and league members pursue careers as well as volunteer work. No longer are they just “young women of leisure,” as they are described in the introduction to the old Los Angeles league book.

As one of the organization’s chief fund-raising tools, Junior League cookbooks have always found an enthusiastic audience among California readers because the recipes fit the needs of the average cook, from simple fast dishes to food fancy enough for company--”good home cooking with a little bit of panache,” says one fan.

They reflect regional tastes, ingredients are easy to find, procedures are straightforward, and enthusiasm floods their pages. There’s a feeling of comfort and security in using recipes from women who could be friends or neighbors, often accompanied by glowing comments. “A great mid-week supper. Your kids will love it,” says the introduction to Tijuana torte, an easy casserole of ground beef, cheese and tortillas in “California Sizzles” (1992) by the Junior League of Pasadena.

“Delicious is an understatement for this coffeecake” goes with a frosted oatcake in “Delicious Decisions” by the Junior League of San Diego (1987). And who could resist chocolate caramel shortbread bars that are “sinfully rich and wonderful!” from “California Fresh Harvest,” the recent book by the Oakland-East Bay Junior League.

Recipes come from popular restaurants, caterers, hotels and bakeries as well as league members. While “California Fresh Harvest” offers candied ginger shortcakes with peaches from the Point Arena Bakery, and picholine olives braised with white wine and lemon from Chez Panisse, the 1930 L.A. book includes a cold julienne of chicken en aspic from the California Club, milk-fed chicken Jerusalem from the Town House, and spring chicken saute mascot from the Biltmore Hotel. (Other contributors included names prominent in Southern California history, including: Mmes. Secondo Guasti, Walter Leimert, John O’Melveny, Ernest Duque and Asa Call.)

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The books change with the times, not only in terms of culinary fashion, but in deeper ways. A decade after that 1930 cookbook, the league produced another. This one is sprinkled with practical dishes for women whose lives and resources had been affected by economic changes. The Depression had taken its toll, and World War II was on the horizon.

These leaguers could turn to practical recipes for tamale pie, “Mexican” chili, “supper” spaghetti and macaroni in a chapter of “Sunday Night Suppers.” Scattered through other chapters are such classics of economy as lentil soup with wieners, tuna supreme (tuna, rice and ketchup mixed with white sauce) and “Italian Delight” (noodles, corn, canned tomato soup and cheese combined with cooked veal or chicken). Interestingly, the name “risotto” makes its debut in this book. But instead of the Italian rice dish, it was a baked dish of Hungarian goulash and rice topped with peas.

Even the way the books were put together changed. In the 1930 book, recipes were written without much detail and were only tested by the women who contributed them. What is lacking in detail is compensated for with quaint charm. To make Mom’s Brunswick Stew, you need “1 heavy hen (not too old).” This you “put in pot and cook until meat comes off the bones. Remove bones. Put meat back in liquid and add 1 can tomatoes, 1 can corn, 1 can lima beans.” The seasonings are “about three tablespoons Worcestershire and a little Tobasco[sic],” and salt. The last step is to peel four potatoes and add them “about an hour before chicken is done” (how long does it take to cook that tough old hen?).

Leagues today put more effort into honing their recipes than the authors of some commercially published books. They may be triple-tested in home kitchens, graded on evaluation forms, tasted at committee meetings and revised and improved.

As well they should, Junior League cookbooks sometimes circulate for years. The older, out-of-print books occasionally turn up at used book stores, book sales and thrift shops. Buyers snap them up, often at bargain prices, appreciating their historical value and local flavor.

You don’t have to be a cook to love the 1964 book by the Junior League of Pasadena, “Pasadena Prefers.” This spiral-bound book was divided into sections that reflected the leisure-minded society of that day. Leaguers designed their meals around tailgating, “riding and racquets,” lawn sports (shuffleboard, badminton), skiing, golf, armchair sports and parlor games. Reflecting an improved economy, the chapter on “Yachting, Boating, Sailing and Snorkeling” addresses the requirements of those with boats smaller than 40 feet and those plying the seas in larger vessels. The parlor games chapter notes that “Charades, dancing, conversation for adults in evening clothes--require extraordinary dinners.”

By this time, food had become self-consciously “gourmet.” A recipe for “Gourmet White Wine and Gruyere Casserole” specified, in italics, that “imported” Gruyere should be used.

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Some books are general recipe collections, appetizers to desserts. Others are organized around themes. “R.S.V.P.: A Complete Cookbook and Entertaining Guide” published by the Junior League of Newport Harbor in 1982, covers every aspect of party giving: invitation design, table settings, centerpieces, serving pieces, napkin folds, a countdown schedule, menus and recipes.

“California Sizzles” focuses on easy dishes that can be prepared quickly and that typify the California lifestyle. “California Fresh Harvest” explores crops, commodities and tourist attractions of Northern California in a format as worthy of a cocktail table as a kitchen counter.

Pasadena’s “The California Heritage Cookbook” (1976) weaves the state’s history through its chapters and displays antique maps on its end papers. “San Francisco a la Carte,” produced in 1979 by the Junior League of San Francisco, tours the city highlights and tells how to make such local specialties as Palace Court salad, Green Goddess salad dressing, cioppino and fried cream.

The effort that went into compiling these books was motivated by more than league pride. “The most important message about the cookbooks is they are really a means to an end,” says Jane A. Silverman, executive director of the Assn. of Junior Leagues International. “They [the leagues] use them to fund just great, great projects.”

Chocolate Caramel Shortbread Bars

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 1/2 hours

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From “California Fresh Harvest” by the Oakland-East Bay Junior League (2001).

SHORTBREAD LAYER

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1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened

1/2 cup sugar

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

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Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Beat the butter and sugar in a bowl on medium speed until creamy, 3 to 4 minutes. Mix the flour and baking powder together and beat into the butter mixture.

Pat the dough into the bottom of a 13x9-inch baking pan. Bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven. Let stand until cool.

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CARAMEL LAYER

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

1/2 cup light brown sugar, packed

3/4 cup sweetened condensed milk

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

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Combine the butter, brown sugar, condensed milk and corn syrup in a saucepan and mix well. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Boil, stirring constantly, until a candy thermometer registers 238 degrees, 10 to 12 minutes. Pour over the shortbread layer. Cool.

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CHOCOLATE LAYER

1 cup chopped pecans, optional

2 cups (12 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips

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Toast the pecans in a dry skillet over medium heat, stirring, until lightly browned, 5 to 6 minutes.

Heat the chocolate chips in a double boiler set over, but not touching, simmering water or in a microwave, until melted. Stir to blend. Spread the chocolate over the cooled caramel layer. Sprinkle with the pecans and press them lightly into the chocolate. Let cool before cutting into bars.

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48 bars. Each bar: 138 calories; 77 mg sodium; 17 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.56 gram fiber.

Gourmet White Wine and Gruyere Casserole

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 1/2 hours

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From “Pasadena Prefers” by the Pasadena Junior League (1964).

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1 clove garlic, crushed

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter,softened

6 slices stale bread, crusts removed

3 eggs

1 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup chicken stock

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 scant teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon prepared mustard

1/2 teaspoon paprika

Dash cayenne pepper

1/2 pound grated Gruyere cheese (2 cups)

2 green onions, tops only, chopped

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Heat the oven to 325 degrees.

Blend the garlic with the butter; butter one side of the bread and cut it in strips to fit a 1-or 11/2-quart shallow casserole. Line the bottom and sides of the casserole with the bread, butter side down.

Beat the eggs lightly, then add the wine, stock, Worcestershire sauce, salt, mustard, paprika and cayenne pepper, beating gently.

Gradually beat in the cheese and onion tops. Pour the mixture over the bread. Bake until the custard is firm, about 1 hour.

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4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 377 calories; 712 mg sodium; 166 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 13 grams saturated fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams protein; 0.51 gram fiber.

Warm Upside-Down Pear Cake

With Tangerine Custard Sauce

Active Work Time: 45 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours plus 2 hours chilling

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From “San Francisco Flavors,” published by the Junior League of San Francisco in 1999. If tangerines are not available, substitute orange zest and juice.

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TANGERINE CUSTARD SAUCE

1/4 cup sugar

2 egg yolks

1 cup half-and-half

Grated zest of 2 tangerines

1 teaspoon tangerine juice

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

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Whisk the sugar and egg yolks together in a bowl.

In a small, heavy saucepan, bring the half-and-half and zest just to a simmer; do not boil. Gradually whisk half the hot mixture into the yolk mixture. Return to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens and coats a spoon, about 5 minutes. Do not boil. Strain the custard into a clean bowl. Whisk in the tangerine juice and vanilla. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 2 days.

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TOPPING

3/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

3 large Bartlett or Bosc pears, peeled, cored and cut into thin slices

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Butter a 9-inch round cake pan.

Stir the sugar and water in a nonstick skillet over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat and simmer, without stirring, until the color is a deep amber, about 10 minutes, swirling the pan occasionally and brushing down the sides with a wet pastry brush. Pour the caramel into the prepared pan, tilting to coat the bottom. Overlap the pears in concentric circles on top of the caramel.

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CAKE

1 1/2 cups flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) plus 1 tablespoon butter, room temperature

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

2 eggs

2 teaspoons grated tangerine zest

3 tablespoons milk

3 tablespoons whipping cream

3 tablespoons Cognac

1/2 cup chopped pecans

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Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Stir the flour, baking powder and salt together in a small bowl.

In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar together until fluffy. Add the eggs and zest and beat until light and fluffy.

Combine the milk, cream and Cognac in a small bowl. Alternately add the flour mixture and the milk mixture to the butter mixture in thirds, stirring to blend after each addition. Stir in the nuts. Pour the batter over the pears.

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Bake until the cake is golden and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Let cool in the pan on a rack for 5 minutes. Run a knife around the edges, place a platter over the cake, and invert. Let rest for 1 minute, then remove the pan. Serve the cake warm, with the cold Tangerine Custard Sauce on the side.

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8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 468 calories; 509 mg sodium; 126 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 10 grams saturated fat; 65 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 2.07 grams fiber.

Chicken Tamale Pie

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 1/2 hours

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From “Junior League Recipes,” published by the Junior League of Los Angeles in 1930. This recipe, contributed by Mrs. Brian Welch, appeared in a chapter titled “Spanish-Mexican.”

CHICKEN

1 (4-pound) chicken

1 1/2 cups cornmeal

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon paprika

2 teaspoons salt

2 cups milk

1 1/2 cups sliced black olives

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Grease a 2-quart baking pan and set aside.

Place the chicken in a Dutch oven and cover with very hot water. Bring to a boil and cook 40 minutes.Drain the chicken, reserving 3 cups of the stock. Remove the skin and bones and discard. Cut the chicken into bite-size pieces.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Bring the reserved stock to a boil and add the cornmeal, chili powder, paprika and salt; stir until smooth. Add the milk, whisking to avoid any lumps, and cook until the mixture is slightly thickened and drops readily from a spoon. Fold in the olives and the chicken. Pour the mixture into the baking pan.

Bake the pie until lightly browned on top and heated through, 20 minutes. Serve with Chili Cream Sauce.

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CHILI CREAM SAUCE

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon flour

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups milk

3 tablespoons finely chopped canned pimientos

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Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat and stir in the flour until smooth. Cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the chili powder and salt, then add the milk and cook, stirring, until the sauce thickens. Add the pimientos and cook 5 minutes until slightly thickened. Serve hot with the Tamale Pie.

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8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 807 calories; 1,256 mg sodium; 247 mg cholesterol; 43 grams fat; 13 grams saturated fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 77 grams protein; 2.43 grams fiber.

Frosted Oatcake

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours

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From “Delicious Decisions” by the Junior League of San Diego (1987).

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2 1/2 cups water

2 cups oatmeal

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

2 cups brown sugar, packed

4 eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

3 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

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Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 13x9-inch baking pan.

Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan. Add the oatmeal, reduce the heat and cook until the water is absorbed, about 5 minutes. Remove the oatmeal from the heat and set aside. Allow it to cool to room temperature.

Cream the butter in a large mixing bowl and gradually beat in the granulated and brown sugars. Blend in the eggs and vanilla and beat for 2 minutes. Add the oatmeal.

Mix the flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg in a separate bowl. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the sugar-butter mixture and blend in. Mix for 2 minutes.

Pour the batter in the pan. Bake the cake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Allow the cake to cool before frosting.

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FROSTING

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

1 cup brown sugar, packed

1/3 cup whipping cream

1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans

1 1/2 cups flake coconut

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Combine the butter, sugar, cream, nuts and coconut and spread over the cooled cake.

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15 to 18 servings. Each of 18 servings: 609 calories; 348 mg sodium; 101 mg cholesterol; 27 grams fat; 14 grams saturated fat; 89 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 2.76 grams fiber.