Wine of the Week

Here’s a wine full of the dark, briary, concentrated fruit that Syrah can show in this part of the Rhone, especially in a wonderful vintage like 1999. Wine aficionados are always talking about depth of flavor--this has it. Charged with flavors of cassis, spice and smoke, this wine has the kind of long finish that makes for interesting drinking.

Crozes-Hermitage is the largest appellation in the northern Rhone, and one not known for the general high quality of its wines; this is an exception. It’s never going to be an Hermitage, but Robin’s “Cuvee Alberic Bouvet” goes a long way toward showing what a Crozes can be when it’s made with as much care as its big brother. It’s a steal at this price.

About $20. Available at Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Vendome Liquor in Studio City, (818) 766-5272; and Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111. If you can’t find this wine, have your local wine store call the distributor, Henry Wine Group, at (800) 669-9429.