Accessorizing With Abandon

“She may not do some of the old songs anymore, but she still gives her past a nod via the clothing.” Accessories designer Michael Schmidt is talking about Madonna, whose Drowned World Tour concluded with its L.A. dates in September. Indeed, ‘80s-style excess seemed the ambience of choice for the pop diva, whose five costume changes ranged from edgy punk chick to black-wigged geisha to Spanish retro to country cowgirl to ghetto-fabulous pimp mama. Schmidt was sought out by Madonna and her stylist, Arianne Phillips, to help with finishing touches for many of the outfits, which were created by designers such as Dolce & Gabbana and Jean Paul Gaultier. “My aesthetic is very much the punk rock stuff,” says Schmidt, who contributed spiked dog collars, Swarovski crystal-encrusted bracelets, tattered tops and a kilt to the diva’s bondage and punk-flavored opening segment.

If Madonna was looking to celebrate her ‘80s roots, she couldn’t have found a more fitting co-conspirator than Schmidt, who is still known for the crystal-and-silver skull rings and chain-and-crystal bead outfits he created for Steven Tyler and Tina Turner, respectively, throughout the decadent decade. “Punk may have broke in the ‘70s, says Schmidt, “but it didn’t become a pop culture phenomenon until the ‘80s. It was enormously influential to me.”

Originally from Kansas City, Mo., Schmidt moved to New York at 18 and honed his chops at New York City jewelry emporium Erickson Beamon during the early ‘80s. On his own, he experimented with unusual materials such as chain mail. After Cher spotted one of Schmidt’s ring-linked dresses in a Manhattan store window, the dark-haired diva introduced Schmidt to other performers, and it wasn’t long before he migrated to Hollywood. He spent several years as a favorite of the glam metal set, crafting chained-together T-shirts and leather pants for Motley Crue and Bon Jovi, among others.

With the advent of grunge, however, Schmidt’s over-the-top creations were less in demand. He left the fashion biz and returned to New York to open a wildly popular club called SqueezeBox!, where drag queens and rock ‘n’ rollers partied until dawn. “It sated my need for flamboyance,” says Schmidt, who ran the ‘90s hot spot for seven years.

Now 38, Schmidt is back in L.A. and--at the urging of stylist friends--designing again. Punk and glitz are back, and new sensations such as Pink and Gwen Stefani, along with old fans Tyler and Cher, are buying his accessories. His work will be seen on Britney Spears’ upcoming tour, and he’s met with Michael Jackson staffers. Schmidt pieces are available at Blest in Hollywood, though he’s currently focusing on custom work. “Some of the hair metal stuff looks silly to me now,” says the designer, “but the harder-edged punk styles that came out of the ‘80s still inspire artists like Madonna and myself to this day.”

Strike a pose

From detail work to glitzy adornments, Schmidt’s designs added to the ambience of Madonna’s Drowned World Tour shows.

Song: “Candy Perfume Girl” Look: punk black-and-white plaid bondage top and kilt, spiked collar and bracelet, crystal-studded guitar strap.

Song: “Frozen” Look: Asian red-crystal wrist cuffs.

Song: “Don’t Tell Me” Look: Cowgirl guitar strap with floral patterns to resemble the tooling of a western saddle.

Song: “Holiday” Look: pimpy diva sparkly rings and bracelets.