Finding the Right Oil for You

Consumers of olive oil divide into two camps--trained tasters capable of detecting minute technical defects and eaters who may not know the defect fustiness from mustiness, but who know what they like.

Some aficionados insist that only trained tasters have the faculties and expertise to conduct olive oil tastings. However, producers such as Ridgely Evers in Sonoma argue just as intently that trained tasters are walking chemistry sets and that the people best equipped to judge the properties of olive oil are cooks.

We have it both ways. The trained tasters supported by Corti judged a wide selection of California olive oils for the Los Angeles County Fair this year, and below we note the best of show winners. But we also conducted our own tasting, for which we assembled The Times food staff, Lucques chef Suzanne Goin, Angeli Caffe chef Evan Kleiman and journalist Sue Ellicott.

The tasting was blind and held in two sessions on different days. The oils were repackaged and re-coded for each session. Two respected Italian oils, Tuscan Badia a Coltibuono and Sicilian Ravida, were thrown in as ringers. Tasted blind, the Badia a Coltibuono elicited by far the highest praise, with Ravida not far behind.

Interestingly, in spite of the vogue here for mock Tuscan oils, oils made from the Spanish variety Sevillano planted widely in California in the 18th and 19th centuries, scored as well as the pseudo-Italian oils.

Whatever style of oil you like, the most important this is to avoid rancidity by storing it in a cool dark place and consuming it quickly. Here are our favorites of the Californian oils, along with the County Fair best of show winners. Many oils are also available from the Olive Oil Source (https://www.arrowgroup.com).

Frantoio Sevillano Variety Proprietor’s Select. A varietal oil from one of the most common Spanish cultivars in California, from Roberta Zecca’s olive press and restaurant in Mill Valley. Singled out for “round flavor” and “balance,” it also took a best of show for the “late harvest” or ripe oil category at the L.A. County Fair.

$15 for a 500-milliliter bottle. Frantoio, (415) 289-5777 or https://www.frantoio.com.

2000 Storm Olive Ranch. This new-wave Tuscan-style is made from Frantoio, Leccino, Maurino and Pendolino olives. Times tasters praised it as having a “good olive taste” with a “peppery finish.” It shared a gold in the “New World European blend” in the L.A. County Fair.

$20 for 375 milliliters. Katz and Co., (800) 676-7176 or https://www.katzandco.com.

2001 Balzana. Made from Ascolano, Sevillano and California-type olives by an Italian olive oil maker in Hollister. Praised by tasters as “a round full-bodied oil ... nice peppery finish. “

$17.99 for 500 milliliters. Available from fine food shops around Southern California,including Wally’s Wines and Spirits in Westwood, (310) 475-0606 or https://www.wallywine.com.

St. Helena Extra Virgin Olive Oil Sevillano. Made from a traditional California olive variety imported in the 1880s and planted widely in California. Described as “light” and “smooth” by our tasters. A winner in the Early Harvest category in the L.A. County Fair.

$10 for 250 milliliters. St. Helena Olive Co., (800) 939 9880 or https://www.sholiveoil.com.

2000 Lunigiana Organic. Tuscan-style oil made with Frantoio, Leccino, Maurino and Pendolino olives cultivars. Praised for its “good olive taste” and “low acidity,” it also won best of show for the piquant early harvest category at the L.A. County Fair.

$20 for 375 milliliters. The Olive Press, (707) 938 8900.

Sciabica’s Sevillano Fall Harvest. A varietal oil made in Modesto by California’s longest-running olive oil producers. Made from olives of 19th-century Central Valley trees, picked in the autumn while still a bit green so the oil has tartness. “Smooth, well-balanced, herbaceous, fruity, nice pepper in the finish,” said one taster. Sciabica’s Ascolano oil was also praised. The county fair tasters awarded a best of show award to the jalapeno-infused oil.

$6.50 to $7.50 for 150 milliliters, Nick Sciabica & Sons, (800) 551-9612 or https://www.sciabica.com.