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The right balance, from top to bottom

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TUNA tartare may be the single most popular dish at L.A. restaurants for the last five years running. But most versions around town are so anonymous they’re forgotten before they’re finished.

Not at Water Grill. First of all, the quality of the tuna is superb. It’s hand-cut, so that each glistening piece remains distinct. Seafood wizard Michael Cimarusti piles the glistening red cubes on a base of smashed avocado, the better to contrast fat with lean, and dresses it with a bracing green peppercorn vinaigrette. Because his touch is so light, the dressing lets the flavor of Pacific big-eye tuna shine through. Wearing a flouncy skirt of thinly sliced radishes, this tuna tartare has become one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. It doesn’t take a genius to figure out why.

Water Grill, 544 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 891-0900

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Big-eye tuna tartare

Total time: 30 minutes

Servings: 4

Note: Although this recipe may look intimidating, there’s not much more to it than assembling a salad. Green peppercorns are available at specialty markets and well-stocked supermarkets. Big-eye tuna is sold at specialty supermarkets and fish stores. Keep the tuna on ice as you work with it. Metal ring molds can be found at cookware stores and are often sold in sets.

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Avocado relish

1 ripe avocado

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon diced red onion

1 1/2 teaspoons chopped chives

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Salt, pepper

1. Mash the avocado flesh with the tines of a fork and add the lemon juice. Add the onion and chives. Add the oil in a stream, stirring to blend. Add the salt and pepper to taste.

Green peppercorn dressing

1 tablespoon canned green peppercorns, plus 1 tablespoon juice from the can

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt, pepper

6 tablespoons sunflower oil or grape seed oil

1. Place the peppercorns, their juice, the mustard and the lemon juice in a blender. Add salt and pepper to taste. Blend at low speed for 30 seconds. Add the oil in a slow stream, blending on high speed. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper.

Assembly

4 small red radishes

6 ounces big-eye tuna, cut into 1/4-inch pieces

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon finely chopped chives

1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion

1 cup mixed greens

1. Slice the radishes as thinly as possible, using a mandoline if you have one.

2. Make a ring with the radishes in the center of each of 4 chilled plates. Place a 2 1/2 inch-diameter ring mold in the center of each ring of radishes. Divide the avocado relish among the molds; it should not be more than one-half-inch tall.

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3. Season the tuna with salt and pepper. Add the green peppercorn dressing to taste, about 1 1/2 tablespoons. Add the chives and onion. Mix well. Adjust the seasoning. Divide the tuna among the 4 molds and smooth the tops. Remove the molds. Dress the greens very lightly with about 1 tablespoon of the dressing. Place the greens decoratively over the tuna. Drizzle the remaining dressing around the plates. Serve immediately.

Each serving: 335 calories; 264 mg. sodium; 16 mg. cholesterol; 31 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 2.69 grams fiber.

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