1993 Fattoria di Felsina Berardenga Vin Santo, Italy

In the Tuscan countryside, every farmhouse used to make a little vin santo to offer guests. The “holy wine” is painstakingly derived from Trebbiano and sometimes Malvasia grapes, dried on straw mats until they are like raisins, then pressed and aged in small casks. The best vin santos -- such as this one, from one of the top Chianti Classico producers -- are among the greatest of Italy’s dessert wines. Pour it into a small glass: The amber wine clings to the sides like honey. The scent is of hazelnuts and prunes. It is absolutely stunning.

Drink it on its own after dinner, or with the classic accompaniment, a plate of biscotti, but please don’t dip -- this vin santo is too fine for that. It comes in a 500-milliliter bottle (two-thirds of a normal bottle), enough to pour a small glass for everyone at the holiday table.

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Region: Tuscany.

Price: About $50.

Style: Luscious golden dessert wine.

Food it goes with: Drink it alone, or with biscotti, nut cookies.

Where you find it: Beverly Glen Market in Los Angeles, (310) 475-0829; various Bristol Farms markets; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Larchmont Village Wine & Cheese in Los Angeles, (323) 856-8699; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; Wine Gallery in Corona del Mar, (949) 675-3410; and Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.