IN THE MOOD

Here are a few places that add a little something extra to the usual comfort-food mashed potatoes.

2087 An American Bistro: Eclectic chef Alex Molina flavors mashed Yukon Gold potatoes with toasted sesame seeds and dried bonito and seaweed, giving a smoky, bacon-like flavor, or with boiled fennel bulb puree and fennel leaves for a nice licorice bite. (Side of potatoes, $6.) 2087 An America Bistro, 2087 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks, (805) 374-2087.

Cafe Zoolu: Chef-owner Michael Leech throws lots of butter and heavy cream into boiled Russets, then folds in either horseradish, wasabi or boiled garlic. They’re mashed by hand until fluffy. He also makes a lovely mashed potato pancake topped with smoked salmon and caviar. (Side of mashed potatoes, $5; mashed potato pancake, $12.) Cafe Zoolu, 860 Glenneyre St., Laguna Beach, (949) 494-6825.

Cafe Pierre: These creamy, chunky mashed potatoes come with a subtle fennel flavoring or a sweet and spicy mixture of carrot and dried chipotle chiles. If it’s too hard to choose, get both--you can’t beat the price. (Side of mashed potatoes, $2.) Cafe Pierre, 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, (310) 545-5252.

The Farm of Beverly Hills: What could be better than creamy mashed potatoes with ribbons of melted Gorgonzola and lots of butter? The sharp, gooey cheese works beautifully with the smooth, airy potatoes. (Blue cheese mashed potatoes, $2.50.) The Farm of Beverly Hills, 439 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 273-5578.

The Sunset Room: Chef Andrew Pastore flavors mashed Yukon Gold potatoes with cream, European butter--and wasabi. He also makes a similar rustic potato mash, replacing the Yukon Golds with red-skin potatoes and the wasabi with horseradish and tangy caper berries. (Mashed potatoes, $6.) The Sunset Room, 1430 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 463-0004.

Campanile: These fluffy mashed potatoes are made from boiled Russets and garlic, passed through a sieve. Then butter and boiled-down cream are added until the mashed potatoes are silky smooth. Just before they’re served, a dollop of creme fraiche spiked with shallots is placed on top. (Mashed potatoes with shallot creme fraiche, $7.) Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 938-1447.

Jessica Strand