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A Foot in L.A.’s Door

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TIMES STAFF WRITER

Italian shoe designer Andrea Pfister has a special fondness for L.A. because it was here at Robinson’s in 1979 that he made his first personal appearance in the U.S., dressed in a Thierry Mugler space suit.

“My body has changed a little since then,” jokes Pfister, 59, who now prefers the blue blazer and white pants look of the Italian Riviera, where he summers, with his trademark red suede loafers.

Still, he remembers the L.A. trip well, especially strolling down Rodeo Drive for the first time thinking, “This is where I want to be.”

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Finally, 23 years later, this is where he is. Pfister was in town this week to open a Rodeo Drive boutique to showcase his designs--lipstick red thongs sprouting satin flowers, pumps with carrot-shaped heels, white leather sandals with silver-studded straps and other footwear follies, $245 to $620.

In his nearly 40 years in business, he has been a favorite with fashion divas, from Liz Taylor to Madonna, to Nancy Reagan--who invited the designer to the White House--to Barbra Streisand.

“Since when does Barbra Streisand seek somebody else’s autograph on her shoes?” The Times wrote in 1979, when Pfister penned his name on both of the singer’s size 8 1/2 lavender lizard and pink suede heels, drew a heart and added, “To Barbra.”

Pfister was born in Pesaro, Italy, the son of a shoe importer. He studied art in Florence and shoe making in Milan before starting work for Lanvin and Patou in Paris in 1963. With the help of business and life partner Jean Pierre Dupre, Pfister launched his line in 1965, gaining fame for footwear made from exotic skins (lizard, turkey, snake) with patchwork. In the late 1970s and early ‘80s, he created must-have shoes with miniature cutouts of seals, parrots, fish and other animals on the toes.

He designs at his home in Vigevano or at his Positano retreat on the Amalfi Coast, which has served as an international party pad over the years. Inspiration comes from books, art, travel--even wrapping paper. (Each season, Pfister creates a hand-painted shoe based on a selection from his extensive stash, collected from around the world).

His work has been exhibited at the Musee International de la Chaussure Romans, New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto and L.A.’s Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, all of which was flattering, but not so much as seeing his shoes on the street.

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All smiles after the opening of his eponymous boutique Tuesday, he said, “I noticed a woman who kept the shoes she bought on her feet to go home. These things are very important.”

To Protect and Look Good

The legend of the evil eye has captivated Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Indo-European cultures for thousands of years, and now it’s caught the eye of Hollywood trendsetters.

Against the Evil Eye bracelets by New York-based designer Lorraine Schwartz have been spotted on such stars as Britney Spears and Heather Locklear. Thought to protect the wearer against the “evil eye curse” of envious people, the gold and semiprecious stone bracelets cost $3,200 to $8,000 at Fred Leighton, David Orgell; they can also be ordered by calling (646) 274-2008.

“I think the whole 9/11 situation has made people a lot more superstitious,” says Schwartz, 38. “They just want protection.”

Those who prefer not to pay such a high price for protection can buy enamel versions for $38 each at Kitson on Robertson Boulevard.

Honors for Owens

On Monday, after 10 years in the business, Los Angeles designer Rick Owens, 40, nabbed the Perry Ellis Award for Emerging Talent at the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s annual awards ceremony at the New York Public Library. “At first I said, ‘Jeez, I’m a little old for this,’ but it’s not about being young, it’s about being put in another level in the industry,” the intensely private designer said Thursday. “And there’s really no reason anyone should have noticed me before because I have only let myself be visible recently.”

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Other winners: Marc Jacobs, menswear designer of the year; Carlos Falchi, accessory designer of the year, and Narciso Rodriguez, women’s wear designer of the year.

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