Cheap Eats

The hip and the healthy pack into [AMMO], where sleek tables and concrete floors provide a backdrop for stylish comfort food. Summer dinners include spaghetti with Japanese baby eggplant with a fresh mozzarella and roasted tomato sauce and a salad of red endive, frisee and mache. But the most irresistible offering is available only at weekend brunch: freshly squeezed juice made from Granny Smith apples, lemons and ginger. Dinner entrees start at $14. Fresh-squeezed juice, $4. Ammo, 1155 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 871-2666.--H.J.

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Changing seasonally, the compact menu at [BRITTA’S] may rove from pasta to pot roast, circle back to warm goat cheese and then head home with duck confit. Eclectic, yes, but the baseline is the best of fundamental American culinary values updated with international influences. Entrees start at $11. Britta’s, 4237 Campus Drive, Irvine; (949) 509-1211.--M.B.

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It’s easy to get sidetracked by the exotic grills and Peruvian criollo dishes at [CEVICHE DEL REY]. The restaurant boasts seven ceviches, the best of which is the zingy, clean-tasting tiradito, an elegant version that’s almost a sashimi. Halibut is sliced to near translucence and lightly marinated in lime. Tiradito, $13. Ceviche del Rey, 7404 Florence Ave., Downey; (562) 806-4033.--L.B.

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The specialties at [NU-Y] are the Vietnamese eight-course fish dinners, which are more a tapas spread than a glutton’s feast. Dainty fresh and fried fish spring rolls arrive with dipping sauces and the familiar herb-lettuce-rice paper-noodle quartet. Diners can roll or swish as their pleasure dictates while devouring the marvelous fish salad, assorted leaf-wrapped grills and tamarind-drenched fish fingers. Fish dinners, $14 per person. Nu-y, 10830 Warner Ave., Fountain Valley; (714) 963-1700.--L.B.

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If you’re looking for authentic home-style Greek cooking, the venerable and family-run [CHRISTAKIS] is the place. The piece de resistance is the rack of lamb ($29). Marinated in white wine and oregano, it’s tender and juicy and almost enough for two. For dessert, be sure to have the galactobouriko--clove-infused custard baked in a sheath of filo dough. Entrees start at $8. Christakis, 13011 Newport Ave., Tustin; (714) 731-1179.--M.B.

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Great flame-broiled, Mexican-style chicken is the stock in trade at [CHARO CHICKEN], where the crew slathers beautifully blackened pieces with a thick lemon garlic butter sauce. Sides--particularly whole pinto beans a la olla and adroitly seasoned Spanish rice--are impeccable. Half chicken with two sides, $8. Charo Chicken. Eleven locations, including the original at 333 Main St., Seal Beach; (562) 594-0909.--M.J.

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For 16 years, owner Suk Kyong Kim has coddled Korean customers at [CHIN GO GAE]. Her tender black goat is the prescription. Infused with vibrant red pepper and masses of garlic, it’s either grilled table-side or simmered in deeply flavored bubbling broth. Great handfuls of brilliant fresh greens follow the meat into the pot, and every bite is paradise. $26 for two. Chin Go Gae, 3036 W. 8th St., Koreatown; (213) 480-8071.--L.B.

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[CLEMENTINE] serves unusually sophisticated salads and sandwiches. Classics such as salmon with creme fra’che, egg salad with watercress or turkey and sprouts on wheat are particularly good. And save room for owner Annie Miller’s desserts, especially the oatmeal-raisin cookies and Moravian sugar bread. Salads and sandwiches, $5 to $10. Clementine, 1751 Ensley Ave., Los Angeles; (310) 552-1080.--C.P.

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Who knew? There’s a crepe cult in Japan, and now it’s here. [CREPE IN THE GRIP] serves wrap-style crepes with fillings ranging from teriyaki to ham and cheese to sundae-like fruit and ice cream mixtures, all presented in a bright, youthful atmosphere. Entree crepes, $4. Crepe in the Grip, 715 W. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel; (626) 282-5265.--C.P.

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Enter [SASOUN BAKERY] and the warm, comforting aroma of bread overtakes you. In the morning, choose from the sweeter breads, such as tahineh and the small cornet-shaped date choereg. As the day progresses, offerings turn from sweet to savory with breads such as lemon-flavored spinach or the paper-thin lahmajoon spread with a layer of finely ground spicy lamb. Breads, about $1. Sasoun Bakery, 5114 Santa Monica Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 661-1868.--J.S.

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With its wild tiki bar and jungle vibe, [DAMON’S STEAKHOUSE] is as retro-Polynesian as an aloha shirt. Go for the petit filet steak lunch, which includes a salad with the restaurant’s famous creamy orange dressing, and a choice of fries, rice or tomatoes. Try it with a Damon’s mai tai. Petit filet steak lunch, $10, mai tai, $5. Damon’s Steakhouse, 317 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale; (818) 507-1510.--B.H.

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You can’t go wrong at the postage-stamp-sized [DEERFIELD KITCHEN]. The $4 lunch menu includes bacon with garlic shoots--a pile of sauteed vegetables shot through with thin brown slices of the smokiest pork around. Only here will you find the addictive jing do rou bing, a fried flatbread stuffed with a layer of fine, fatty minced pork. Jing do rou bing, $4. Deerfield Kitchen, 130 S. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park; (626) 284-3867.--M.J.

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The tourists flocking to Hollywood & Highland may be looking for movie memorabilia, but at [CAFE MOZART OF EUROPE] they’ll find a dream of old Vienna. The cafe serves a remarkable frankfurter sandwich, not to mention rich Viennese pastries and elaborate European coffee and ice cream creations. Sandwiches, $5 to $7. Cakes and sundaes, $4 to $8. Cafe Mozart of Europe, Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Suite 321, Hollywood; (323) 957-9580.--C.P.

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Colombians flock to the modern minimalist [RESTAURANTE CAFE COLOMBIA] for patacones --tostada-like constructions of garlic-infused smashed green plantain. The disks get double deep-fried to a shattering crunchiness, mounded high with sour orange-infused chicken (or your choice of grilled beef or unctuous pork chicharron) and showered with delicious Colombian coleslaw. Patacones, $8. Restaurante Cafe Colombia, 222 S. Glenoaks Blvd., Burbank; (818) 558-3985.--L.B.

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Part grocery, part delicatessen, [EL METATE] is a spacious, airy place with a casual dining area where you can nurse a cold beer and munch on your choice of hearty pork, beef, chili, chicken or vegetarian tamales. The meat versions come doused in a piquant mole sauce. A local institution for 32 years. Tamales, $2, or $15 per dozen. El Metate, 838 E. 1st St., Santa Ana; (714) 542-3913.--M.B.

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[GYU-KAKU] is the first American outpost of a chain of fast- food restaurants that’s second only to McDonald’s in popularity in Japan. The Japanese-style Korean barbecue features a young, hip setting, cool jazz on the stereo and table grills where patrons cook seafood, marinated beef and organic chicken over charcoal. Don’t miss bibimbap--rice, kimchi and greens in a sizzling stone pot. Appetizers, $1 to $5. Other dishes, $5 to $8. Gyu-kaku, 10925 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 234-8641.--S.I.V.

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For some of the best fries in town, head for [FATHER’S OFFICE]. Served with garlic parsley aioli, the fries arrive “a la cart”--that is, in a paper bag nestled in a miniature metal shopping cart. Roasted garlic and Cabrales blue cheese aioli season the sweet potato version. Wash them down with a pint of Tetley’s ale--the freshest you’ll taste outside of Yorkshire. Fries, $5. Father’s Office, 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 393-2337.--H.J.

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At the [GOLDEN DELI], hidden away in a San Gabriel strip mall, there’s always wait to eat the fabulous Vietnamese fare. Once you’ve tried the shrimp paste--served on sugar cane and wrapped tightly in rice paper with romaine, bean sprouts, carrots, mint, cilantro and Asian herbs-- you’ll be hooked. Dishes from $3 to $7. Golden Deli, 815 W. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel; (626) 308-0803.--J.S.

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You’ll leave Southern California far behind when you enter [JAY BHARAT’S] rose-colored dining room, where Indian families nosh on pettis--a crisp fried pastry filled with coconut, raisins, nuts and potatoes--and sip orange mango lassis. Regulars order up okra curry, dhosas and stuffed puri and other Southern Indian vegetarian specialties. Appetizers, $1 to $3. Entrees, $4 to $7. Jay Bharat, 18701 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia; (562) 924-3310.--J.S.

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[LANGANO], the Valley’s only Ethiopian restaurant, has the usual spicy stews (wats) and kitfo, a rich dish of ground beef mixed with butter and cardamom. Of special interest is the range of vegetarian dishes such as ye-shiro wat, ground yellow split peas mixed with a buttery, garlicky red sauce. Ye-shiro wat, $5. Langano, 14838 Burbank Blvd., Sherman Oaks; (818) 786-2670.--C.P.

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A glass-enclosed waterfall splashes near the entryway of [BANYAN RESTAURANT], where a beautifully stylized rijsttafel--the Indo-Dutch rice-centered feast--tempts both the eye and appetite. Served on a ceramic banana leaf, the long parade of curries with meticulously cut and arranged accompaniments are presented in the restrained manner of a Japanese bento. Rijsttafel, $16. Banyan Restaurant, 1140 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach; (310) 545-9558.--L.B.

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Step into [MADAME MATISSE] and you’re transported to those lovely Parisian or Roman neighborhood storefronts. Here, you can’t go wrong with a beet, apple, Gorgonzola and candied-walnut salad or a perfectly cooked steak au poivre with a mean green peppercorn sauce served with a bubbling, creamy potato au gratin. Entrees start at $10. Madame Matisse, 3536 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake; (323) 662-4862.--J.S.

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The barbecue is wet and sloppy at [PECOS BILL’S PIT B-B-Q], and that’s the way the regulars like it at this 56-year-old neighborhood ‘cue shack. On weekends, there are good pork ribs that sell out fast; as the sign says, it’s open till 3 p.m. “or till the meat runs out.” Sandwiches, $4. Spare ribs, $12 a pound. Pecos Bill’s Pit B-B-Q, 1551 Victory Blvd., Glendale; (818) 241-2750.--C.P.

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Every part of the cow, the pig and (on weekends) lamb, too, is served at [RINCON TAURINO], but the biggest seller is the beefy carne asada. Have a couple of asada tacos topped with onions and hot chipotle sauce and sliced radishes on the side. Carne asada taco, $1. Rincon Taurino. Several locations, including 14551 Nordhoff St., Panorama City; (818) 893-5927.--C.P.

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You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better Italian-style treatment of seafood in Orange County than at [SCAMPI TRATTORIA] in Costa Mesa. Whether tossed with pasta or simmered in risotto, the shrimp, calamari and scallops all emerge magnificently plump, succulent and juicy. Pastas, $8 to $14. Entrees start at $13. Scampi Trattoria, 1576 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa; (949) 645-8560.--M.B.

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Get out your handkerchiefs when you approach [CHUNG KING RESTAURANT]--a repository of fiery Sichuan cuisine. The highlight of the 108-item menu is No. 9: dried beef slices fried with Sichuan hot peppers. It’s a pile of crispy shingles of meat penetrated with rich, devilish flavors. Try the mouthwatering Sichuan dumplings, doused in a red-tinted ultra-spicy broth. Dinner for two, $23 to $39. Chung King Restaurant, 206 S. Garfield Ave., Monterey Park; (626) 280-7430.--M.J.

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As the smoke curls from the charcoal braziers at each table, guests at [SOOT BULL JEEP] take turns grilling beef, pork, baby octopus and short ribs--on or off the bone. Wrap up your barbecue in a lettuce leaf with a smear of fermented bean paste and some pickled daikon or kimchi. Barbecue, $15 to $20 per person. Soot Bull Jeep, 3136 8th St., Los Angeles; (213) 387-3865.--S.I.V.

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[SOUL FOLKS] takes some finding. Two blocks east of Alameda Street, the cafe’s entrance is in Bloom’s General Store. The cozy, incense-perfumed den serves up terrific soul food with some interesting twists (e.g., barbecue tofu as well as hot links). The hamburger overflows the bun, and you might have to cut it in three or four pieces to eat it. Main dishes, $5 to $10. Soul Folks, 714 Traction Ave., Los Angeles; (213) 613-0381.--C.P.

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Head for [STAR OF SIAM] if you’re looking for authentic northeastern Thai cooking. Some shining examples include kai yang--spice-encrusted barbecued chicken redolent of ginger, turmeric and coriander--and som tam, shredded green papaya salad eaten in the hollow of cabbage leaves. To accompany these dishes, try the fine-grained sticky rice served in a bamboo steamer. Kai yang, $6, som tam, $6. Star of Siam, 2109 E. Broadway, Long Beach; (562) 439-1564.--M.J.

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[SUNNIN] is famous for its delicate fried kibbeh (most cooks make this Lebanese bulgur-lamb meatball with a thicker crust) and elegant baklava. But you ought to try the chicken shawarma--it has a good roasted chicken flavor and a dash of sweet spices. Chicken shawarma sandwich, $6. Sunnin Lebanese Cafe, 1779 Westwood Blvd., West Los Angeles; (310) 477- 2358.--C.P.

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On a budget but hungry for homestyle Mexican cooking? You’ll want to stop at [TAMALES LILIANA’S], where the chilaquiles--sliced tortillas that are fried, then smothered in green sauce--or the unusual Zacatecas-style peanut mole draw a crowd. Their fluffy and moist tamales are also divine. Mexican dishes, $2 to $6. Tamales Liliana’s, 4619 Cesar E. Chavez Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 780-0989.--B.H.

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For a steak dinner at bear market prices, slip into a red Naugahyde booth at [TAYLOR’S STEAKHOUSE]. The waitresses are sassy, and the hefty Porterhouse T-bones and culotte steaks--cut as thick as a baseball glove--are precisely cooked. At lunch you can order burgers freshly ground from the steak trimmings. Steak dinners start at $15. Taylor’s Steakhouse, 3361 W. 8th St., Koreatown; (213) 382-8449. Also 901 Foothill Blvd., La Canada Flintridge; (818) 790-7668.--S.I.V.

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Line up at [JOAN’S ON THIRD] for a tarragon chicken salad sandwich or an understated hero smeared with Ligurian olive paste. Pick up goodies for your pantry such as fleur de sel, Umbrian beans or a hunk of Basque sheep’s milk cheese. Salads, $5 to $9. Sandwiches, $7 to $10. Joan’s on Third, 8350 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles; (323) 655-2285.--S.I.V.

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There’s only one thing on the menu at [TIGEORGES’ CHICKEN]: moist, very smoky chicken cooked Haitian-style on avocado and citrus woods. It comes with rice, beans, salad and a mysterious, fairly hot sauce. Other attractions include the restaurant’s jovial proprietor and a soundtrack of irresistible Haitian music. Quarter chicken, $5. TiGeorges’ Chicken, 309 N. Glendale Blvd., Los Angeles; (213) 353-9994.--C.P.

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[TOAD HOUSE] is a Korean restaurant specializing in pork dishes. Pork skins are colorfully presented with red bell pepper, onions, mushrooms and chiles in a spicy-sweet red sauce sprinkled with sesame seeds. The pork skin? It’s in there too, boiled until virtually fat free, then cut into strips that are as light and chewy as al dente pasta. Pork skin, $13. Toad House, 4503 W. Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 460-7037.--B.H.

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[UNCLE DARROW’S CAJUN CREOLE EATERY] may not look like much, but wait until you taste the food at this boxy corner stand. The red beans and rice are spicy and fabulous, and the jambalaya is unforgettable. Stop by on Fridays and Saturdays when they serve up file gumbo and “The Big Easy,” a combination of fried catfish, shrimp and oysters. Cajun and Creole dishes, $6 to $15. Uncle Darrow’s Cajun Creole Eatery, 5301 W. Venice Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 938-4293.--B.H.

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Those who insist that the patio see-and-be-seen scene is the crux of [URTH CAFE’S] popularity have clearly not tried the Spanish latte. Made with condensed milk, potent house-roasted organic espresso and crowned with foam in the shape of a heart, this sublime concoction will make you an addict. Spanish latte, $4. Urth Cafe, 8565 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (310) 659-0628.--H.J.

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The Lam family is still turning out superior North Vietnamese cooking at [VIEN DONG]. Their splendid goi mit, a texturally rich jackfruit salad, involves sweet, plump shrimp tossed with fresh herbs, toasty sesame seeds and jackfruit shreds resembling hearts of palm. Goi mit, $6. Vien Dong, 14271 Brookhurst St., Garden Grove; (714) 531-8253.--L.B.

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Chef Javier Mel puts his spin on regional Spanish specialties at [VIVA MADRID!] For his cordero a la miel, lean lamb chunks are simmered in meaty juices sparked with honey and peppers. He then strews the meat with nuggets of fresh white cheese and wispy piles of deep-fried spinach and olives for an untraditional garnish. Cordero a la miel, $17. Viva Madrid!, 225 Yale Ave., Claremont; (909) 624-5500.--L.B.

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Like many excellent South Indian cooks, the kitchen staff at [WOODLANDS] has high culinary ambitions for lowly beans and grains. Magically, they transform them into spice-scented griddle cakes, fragile fritters and yard-long dosai with exotic fillings. Showiest among the breads is batura, a balloon-size sphere. Crack open its frail shell and tear a swatch to scoop up curries sprinkled with freshly made coconut chutney. Dinner for two, about $28. Woodlands, 11833 Artesia Blvd., Artesia; (562) 860-6500.--L.B.

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At [YAKITORI-YA], order almost any part of the chicken you can name to be skewered and grilled over Japanese hardwood charcoal. Even the skewers of vegetables (shiitake mushrooms, okra, scallions and hot peppers) are sashed in a strip of chicken. Best are the little gizzards, and the chicken hearts charred at the edges from the heat of the grill. Chicken or vegetable skewers, $2 each. Yakitori-ya, 11301 Olympic Blvd., West Los Angeles; (310) 479-5400.--S.I.V.

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It’s hard to believe [YOMA RESTAURANT’S] vegetable noodle salad costs only $3. This intriguing salad of wheat flour noodles, crisp bean fritters, cabbage and cucumber is dressed with vinegar, black soy sauce and garlic. New in Monterey Park, Yoma is a Burmese restaurant that also offers a complete Thai menu. Vegetable noodle salad, $3. Yoma Restaurant, 713 E. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park; (626) 280-8655.--B.H.

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Quaint collectibles--from cookie jars to dolls--and delightful tea cakes line the shelves at Mr. David’s [HONEYBABY’S TEACAKES] in Pasadena. Try any of the irresistible flavors, such as banana delight, lemon, almond or pecan. Tea cakes, $1 to $2. HoneyBaby’s Teacakes, 10 E. Holly St., Pasadena; (626) 585-9127.--B.H.