Wine of the Week

Neither grassy nor sweet, this beautifully made Sauvignon Blanc--from 25-year-old vines on the Kelham family’s estate in Oakville--has the weight of a Chardonnay and the attractive citrus quality of a white Graves. The scents of honeysuckle, citrus and a touch of new oak jump right out of the glass. It’s opulent yet full of mineral character, and has a bright acidity that means it’s made for food.

One of the best California Sauvignon Blancs I’ve tasted.

About $18. Available at John & Pete’s Fine Wines & Liquor, Los Angeles, (310) 657-3080; Larchmont Village Wine & Cheese, Los Angeles, (323) 856-8699; Village Gourmet, Studio City, (818) 487-3807; and Foothill Wine & Spirits, La Canada Flintridge, (818) 952-4084, among others.