Parlors Frozen in Time

Myths abound about the creation of ice cream, but we do know that the frozen treat landed on the shores of the North American continent just as the states were thinking of uniting. No wonder ice cream still smacks of a nostalgic Americana. We scoured the ice cream parlors of the valleys to find the best that the suburbs have to offer.

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Fosselman’s in Alhambra

1824 W. Main St., Alhambra, (626) 282-6533

www.fosselmans.com

There’s no skimping here, not on the butterfat (16%) or the portions (gi-normous). “Our philosophy is, if you’re going to indulge, it better be good,” said Bob Fosselman, son of the company’s founder. Nearly 50 flavors of ice cream, sherbet and sorbet are churned out on the premises of this family-owned shop, which is now run by the third generation of Fosselmans. They take their cues on new flavors from the ethnically diverse community around Alhambra and Los Angeles chefs, who ask for special blends. Among the current choices: taro root, ube, green tea, lychee nut and macapuno. Mainstays include peppermint stick and cherry vanilla. One of the bestsellers in summer is peach, and though sherbet and sorbet do well in hot weather, it’s still the full-force ice cream that brings in the mostly adult crowds. Winner: Most Decadent and Most Imaginative Flavors.

Fair Oaks Pharmacy & Soda Fountain

1526 Mission St., South Pasadena, (626) 799-1414

www.fairoakspharmacy.net

It’s the real deal, and it sits directly on the “mother road,” Route 66. This neighborhood fixture was restored in the late ‘80s to turn-of-the-20th-century glory. The soda fountain, complete with antique stained-glass cabinets, marble-topped counters, chrome bar stools and original Hamilton Beach malt mixers, came from a 1900s pharmacy in Missouri. The fare: comfy food throwbacks like egg creams, vanilla Cokes, phosphates, banana splits, milkshakes and floats. The butterscotch sundaes are super-swell. Winner: Best Step Back in Time.

Pegadoe’s Frozen Custard

603 N. Hollywood Way, Burbank, (818) 558-6856

www.pegadoes.com

Technically, it’s not ice cream, it’s frozen custard (extra egg yolks, less air, half the butterfat), and it’s popular back East and in the Midwest. It tastes like ice cream, though, only better. Mix-ins like cookie crumbs and candy are available, but who needs them? The flavors--including German chocolate cake, English toffee, pistachio and blueberry--can easily stand alone. Milwaukee native and shop owner Mary Talsky keeps eggnog and pumpkin on the menu year-round. She also makes floats with classics like Bubble Up, Nehi soda and Sprecher Root Beer. Winner: Best Midwestern Import.

Neighborhood Ice Cream Truck

Locations vary

This roving vestige of a laid-back suburbia is still in evidence all around the San Fernando Valley. Hear the tinny little recorded tune wafting through the streets, and you know he’s coming. Kids can file up to the window with 50 cents and come away with a treat. There’s everything from jawbreakers and bubble gum to lemon bombs and push-ups. Winner: Most Convenient.

Farrell’s Ice Cream Parlour

21516 Golden Triangle Road, Santa Clarita,

(661) 253-4386

Who can forget the Pig’s Trough and the Zoo, and all the siren-wailing commotion they caused? That was back when we were kids and we actually wanted people to stop and stare as we plowed into a mountain of ice cream. There used to be 140 of these Disney-esque restaurants, which were wildly popular in the ‘70s and ‘80s and began disappearing. Now, another has resurfaced in the Mountasia Family Fun Center, a mini amusement park in Santa Clarita. It’s open now, with a full ice cream menu and limited food. The grand opening is scheduled for June 1. Mountasia’s owners, Dave and Mike Fleming, who also run Northridge’s Skateland, plan to replicate the original restaurants right down to the Hot Fudge Volcanoes, Pike’s Peaks and “I Made a Pig of Myself at Farrell’s” ribbons. Winner: Best Rebirth of a Nostalgia Restaurant Chain.