A Small but Lively Scene Takes Root in Chinatown

The new Chinatown farmers market, though small in size, draws a lively crowd even before the official opening bell. Last week, it was filled with shoppers from local retirees to Silver Lake hipsters to chefs looking for fresh produce. The market doesn’t specialize in Asian vegetables, but you can find a few like Chinese celery, bitter melon and Japanese cucumbers.

Tara Thomas, chef and owner of Traxx in nearby Union Station, stopped at Yang Thao’s stand on Thursday to buy fragrant Italian, purple and lemon basil, which she said she would combine with parsley and garlic to make a paste for roulades of king salmon. She bought juicy Gaviota strawberries from Luis Guevara Jr. of Santa Maria to make strawberry shortcakes with lemon verbena cream.

Harry Nicholas, who has farmed in Orange Cove since 1945, had irresistibly large, purple-black Garnet cherries with distinctive short stems and an intense winy flavor. Bings and Rainiers from the Stockton area are also reaching the market this week.

The market has not offered peaches yet, but this gap should be filled at Thursday’s market when Summer Harvest Farms starts bringing its excellent organic fruit.

Barbara Van Melle-Seaton, a beekeeper, sold wonderfully creamy, aromatic honey gathered from deerweed, a native plant, in the Angeles National Forest.

In somewhat of a mismatch, Emily Thompson, newly returned to selling at markets, had few takers of her superb artisanal goat cheeses. She had labeled all of them in Chinese--including a creamy fromage blanc, roundels rolled in herbes de Provence and little buttons with smoked salmon. But cheese, after all, is not traditional in Chinese culture.

By 6 p.m., the market had noticeably quieted down.

Launched two weeks ago by the local business improvement district, the market expects to offer more vendors selling Asian produce. By its official grand opening, June 20, it should feature prepared foods as well.

Chinatown farmers market, 727 N. Hill St., between Alpine and Ord streets, Thursdays, 4 to 8 p.m.