At the end of the wine trail, a place to warm up to

THE Santa Ynez wine country north of Santa Barbara is as beautiful as any in the world. Though a surprising number of wineries, large and small, are sprinkled through its rolling hills, the region still retains its rural character. Unlike the Napa Valley, Santa Ynez has managed to resist becoming a wine-themed Disneyland and seems relatively untouched by blatant commercialism.

But in the midst of all this riveting landscape, and its miles of vines, there hasn’t really been anywhere to eat other than a steakhouse in Buellton. A sad state of affairs.

A good wine-country restaurant has been a long time coming. And in June, Brothers Restaurant at Mattei’s Tavern opened in Los Olivos, and now the old stagecoach stop is ablaze with lights. Practically every spot in the ample parking lot is taken. The place is practically humming with energy.

The drive up Highway 154 from Santa Barbara toward the San Marcos pass is a wonderful one. The winding road climbs past blue-shadowed mountains, a silvery lake and gold-furred hills to arrive, after less than an hour, at the little town of Los Olivos: population 1,000. For anybody with dinner in mind, Brothers’ casual charm beckons at the edge of the sleepy little town.

Brothers is the namesake of brothers Matt and Jeff Nichols, who are its chefs and owners. This restaurant is actually the sequel to the much smaller place they had in Solvang a few years back. They could never quite make a go of it there (not enough Danish tchotchkes for visitors in pursuit of the quaint?). At any rate, they closed it and took some time off. When Mattei’s Tavern came up as a possibility, the two jumped on it. Still, it took two years to negotiate the lease and renovate the 1886 building.

The food at the reborn Brothers is not only delicious but perfectly pitched to what locals and wine-country visitors want to eat. More bistro than formal restaurant, Brothers neatly sidesteps the pretentiousness that makes dining in so many wine-country restaurants more chore than full-blown pleasure. Walk into Brothers and you’re greeted by a dynamic hostess in full western regalia -- suede-fringed jacket, turquoise jewelry and cowboy boots. She makes you comfortable at the bar or pulls out a chair in front of the fire.

Glimpse of the past

Waiting for friends to arrive one night, I roamed the room, taking in the framed black-and-white photos of the days when Los Olivos was a stagecoach stop between Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo. Over by the desk, a glass case displays old guest books from the early years of the last century, with reservations for dinner or rooms written out in an accomplished hand, ornamented with bold curlicues. I can almost hear the pen scratching across the ledger, taking down “party of six at 6:30 p.m.; four at 4:45 p.m.”

One of the dining rooms, papered in flocked red velvet, with tall windows and white-swathed tables, probably looks much the same as it did then. The open kitchen and TV in the bar are the sole modern touches -- that and the cooking. Brothers’ succinct one-page menu changes every few weeks, supplemented each night by a couple of specials.

For instance, summer’s beguiling sweet corn soup has made way for an earthy potato and leek soup laced with applewood-smoked bacon, and, on my last visit, a brilliant orange kabocha squash puree swirled with creme fraiche. Fat Asian spring rolls, stuffed with a bright julienne of vegetables and fried crisp and golden, are regulars on the menu, delicious dragged across the spicy fresh plum sauce.

The brothers turn out pretty salads too, such as baby greens embellished with wine-stained pears, creamy blue-veined Stilton and candied walnuts. Another good one is hearts of romaine tossed in a mild roasted garlic dressing and showered with Parmesan shavings that carry a nutty twang.

When it comes to loftier dishes, this kitchen doesn’t miss a beat. Foie gras, seared to a perfect rose pink, is set off by luscious spiced apples and a drizzle of true, aged balsamic vinegar that has the color and texture of molasses.

The service comes in on the correct note, mostly very professional, without veering over into chilly formality. In other words, it suits the spirit and style of the restaurant.

When it comes to main courses, think prime rib, because Brothers’ is the best I’ve had in recent memory. As one of the chefs will explain, they built a special oven so they can slow-roast it overnight. Whatever that oven does, it’s magic. The beef is incredibly flavorful and comes with good mashed potatoes, a crock of horseradish cream -- and its glorious jus.

The veal chop is an anomaly among veal chops -- it actually tastes like something. Charred but still juicy, it’s accompanied by mashed potatoes punched up with piquant whole-grain mustard. A thick Iowa pork chop comes to the table with a dollop of irresistible lemon chive butter melting over the top. There’s also a fine lemon-roasted half chicken with thyme sauce -- a classic with a restrained contemporary twist.

A skillful simplicity

These are the kinds of unfussy dishes anybody would be happy to eat over and over (something that locals particularly appreciate). Brothers’ kitchen relies more on great products and skillful cooking than unbridled creativity, and sometimes that’s a good thing. The menu reads like a beloved cookbook you keep coming back to when the latest overproduced tome loses its glamour. The brothers’ perfect sense of what works in Los Olivos is one more reason Brothers is already one of my favorite restaurants.

That said, it’s a young restaurant, and, although its wine list offers a decent selection of local wines, including the Chardonnay from former Spago sommelier Michael Bonaccorsi, it could have more depth. But they’ve done so much in only a few months, so it’s hard to quibble.

Come dessert, that small boy demolishing a tall wedge of mud pie knows what’s what. I just hope the coffee ice cream won’t keep him up all night.

If that doesn’t suit, maybe the gooey delicious fudge brownie sundae with roasted banana ice cream will, or a crumbly shortcake slathered in berries and vanilla bean ice cream. Or the perfectly classic creme brulee with a burnt-sugar lid that shatters at the first touch of your spoon.

It’s not often that a sequel turns out to be better than the original. Brothers is back, and this time I have a feeling it’s going to be a long run.

*

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Brothers Restaurant at Mattei’s Tavern

Rating: ** 1/2

Location: 2350 Railway Ave., Los Olivos; (805) 688-4820.

Ambience: Amiable wine-country restaurant in a white clapboard tavern that was once a stagecoach stop. Dining rooms have a Victorian feel, and a private wine room is installed in an old water tower.

Service: Remarkably good to unseasoned, but always pleasant.

Price: Appetizers, $7 to $10; main courses, $14 to $29; desserts, $7.

Best dishes: Soups, spring rolls with plum sauce, hearts of romaine salad, foie gras with spiced apples, prime rib, veal chop, lemon roasted chicken, mud pie, creme brulee.

Wine list: Generously sprinkled with local wines, but lacks depth. Corkage, $15.

Best table: One on the glassed-in porch overlooking the front lawn.

Details: Open for dinner daily, 5 p.m to 9 p.m. Lot parking. Full bar.

Video tour: www.calendarlive

.com/dining/videotours

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.